Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Imaqa

Greenland, Cape Farewell
Author: Nathan Goffart. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

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In late July and early August, Gilles Denis and I climbed a new route, Imaqa (550m, 7a+ A2), during the Nanok Expedition, our six-month trip that comprised an atypical triathlon: a partial ice cap traverse on skis while collecting scientific data, kayaking, and big-wall climbing. For the latter, we went to the west face of Nalumasortoq (2,045m).

Imaqa is the Greenlandic equivalent of inshallah, a way of saying “maybe” or “perhaps.” Our new route lies parallel to and immediately right of Pedo de Placer (550m, 7a, Hoedle-Lopez-Molina, 2016, AAJ 2018), toward the right side of the open book that reaches the low point between the left and central pillars. 

Pitch grades are as follows, with our estimated free grades where aid was used: P1 30m 6b A1 (6c), P2 30m 6c A1 (7a), P3 40m 6b A1 (7a). P4 35m 6b A1 (6b+), P5 40m 6c A1 (7a), P6 35m 6c, P7 30m 7a, P8 35m 7a+, P9 40m 6c+, P10 30m 6b, P11 30m 7a A1 (7a/b), P12 30m 6c+ A1 (7a/b), P13 35m 6b+ A1, P14 A2.

Pitches 13 and 14 are loose, and on pitch 14 slippery black lichen covered every square centimeter of rock. We think the last pitch would need extensive cleaning to have any hope of a free ascent. Bolts were placed on all belays and a few for protection in run-out areas to keep the climbing safe yet still maintain some adventure. It’s a nice route with a mix of all types of cracks, very steep slabs, and several offwidths and chimneys. The descent, along the line of the route, needs 60m ropes. To encourage other climbers to try a beautiful and fun route, we left a little gift at the top of pitch eight. We look forward to hearing news from climbers who try Imaqa.

— Nathan Goffart, Belgium



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