I was the leader of a sailing and climbing expedition to Scoresby Sund, departing the west coast of Ireland at the end of June and returning two months later. We first sailed to Iceland, and when the ice cleared we continued to Scoresby Sund, where we explored climbing possibilities on the east side of Milne Land and southern coastline of Renland. The rock on Milne Land was very fractured and loose, so we turned our attention to the Skillebugt Inlet on Renland’s southeast coast. This area has been frequented in the past but still has potential for new lines on the flanks of the inlet.

After a reconnaissance aimed at finding the least fragile rock, Sean Marnane and I climbed a southwest-facing route that we named Skillebugt Wall (9 pitches, British E2 5c). The route starts at an altitude of around 800m, at 71.2610833°N, 25.7053504°W, and is on a formation climbed by a different route in 2015 (see editor’s note below). 

We followed the line of best rock at mainly HVS, finishing late in the day on an exposed rib. This was well below the summit, which to reach would have taken another day’s climbing through very complicated terrain. Descent along this rib was quite sketchy. We had to negotiate many large loose blocks before the angle steepened and we could rappel. At 2 a.m. we were back at the boat, having made full use of the midnight sun.

— Peter Owens, Ireland

Editor’s Note: Many parties have entered Renland via Skillebugt Inlet, most moving further inland to climb objectives from the Apusinikajik and Edward Bailey glaciers. In 2009, while at a base camp at the head of the Skillebugt, Gerke Hoekstra and Martin Fickweiler climbed the 1,000m peak northeast of camp at UIAA IV, naming it Small Lion. In 2015, Philippe Batoux and Enzo Oddo, also camping near the head of the inlet, climbed the peak immediately above and north of their base camp via the 400m southeast ridge (6a). This is assumed to be the smaller, pointed peak south of Small Lion and was named Pointe de l’Observatoire. The same pair also climbed a 400m run-out 7a on what they called Pilier du Camp de Base. This ascends the steep wall around to the left of the exposed rib described by Peter Owens above. See AAJs 2010 and 2016.