Accident Reports ANAM
Lost and Stranded — Weather, Hypothermia Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On May 22, a snowboarder (male, 31) lost his bearings in whiteout conditions while descending from a summit attempt and had to spend the night out, leading to a severe case of hypothermia. According to a post he made at Facebook after these event...

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| Published 2020 | Author Portland Mountain rescue, news reports and climber's Facebook posts


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Excess Slack, Fatigue, Missed Clip North Carolina, Melrose Mountain Climbing Park

Melrose Mountain is a relatively new climbing area, near the South Carolina border, that hosts top-rope, trad, mixed, and sport routes (5.7–5.11). On December 19, Jesse Watson (32) and his partner EC (31) were finishing their day by climbing Feeli...

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| Published 2020 | Author Jesse Watson and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Long Fall — Carabiner Unclipped After Stick-Clipping North Carolina, Linville, Gorge, Hawksbill Mountain

On June 14, I was belaying a very experienced climber who was attempting to stick-clip through the crux on a route. The climber clipped the second bolt from the ground and then began to pull up on the belay strand of the rope while I pulled in sla...

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| Published 2020 | Author Anonymous belayer


Accident Reports ANAM
Loose Rock — Weather, Seldom-Climbed Route North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall, Sentinel Buttress

On May 27, following a two-week period of heavy rain, a pair of very experienced climbers planned to do the popular route Break on Through (5.10a) on the Circus Wall of Sentinel Buttress. The route begins from a ledge approximately 60 feet up an a...

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| Published 2020 | Author Climber 2 and the Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Protection Pulled Out North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park

On August 1 a party of three, Michael Hall (26), M. Johnson (26), and D. Jones (28), were climbing Cowboys and Heroes (5.7), a 40-foot route in the Foreign Trade Zone area. Hall was leading the route and fell from a harder variation near the top o...

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| Published 2020 | Author Michael Hall and Pilot Mountain State Park ranger Jesse A. Anderson


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Climbing Alone, Exhaustion North Carolina, Stone Mountain State Park

During the late afternoon on October 1, a solo climber notified 911 and reported he was uninjured but physically exhausted and unable to finish his climb. He said he was high on the second pitch of the Great Arch (3 pitches, 5.5). Wilkes County di...

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| Published 2020 | Author Lynette Hicks, ranger, Stone Mountain State Park


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Fatal Scrambling Fall Colorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Ellingwood Point

On October 11, Alamosa Volunteer Search and Rescue (AVSAR) was contacted about a missing female climber, who was last heard from at 3 p.m. the previous day at the summit of Ellingwood Point (14,042 feet). The missing person was described as Joy Ci...

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| Published 2020 | Author Crystal Wilson


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection New York, Shawangunks, The Trapps

On August 30, I (male, 59) started up Pas de Deux (5.8 PG-13). I placed two or three good cams in the first 20 feet of the climb. Above that, I saw a couple of places I could have placed cams, not far above my highest piece, but decided to move hi...

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| Published 2020 | Author Christopher Maher


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Snoqualmie Mountain, Northwest Face, The Snostril Washington, Cascade Mountains

During early December 2020, on a way-too-early ice hunting trip to the northwest face of Snoqualmie Mountain (6,278’) with Tom Beirne and Christian Junkar, I spotted a plastered smear that I had never noticed previously. This smear was located muc...

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| Published 2021 | Author Doug Hutchinson


Accident Reports ANAM
Shawangunks Annual Summary New York, Mohonk Preserve

In 2020 the Mohonk Preserve experienced a statistically anomalous year due to the COVID-19 pandemic. For two months, the land was closed to visitors and no access passes were sold. When the preserve was open, there was a significant increase in no...

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| Published 2020 | Author Mohonk Preserve Rangers, Andrew Bajardi, Chief Ranger


Accident Reports ANAM
Loose Rock New Mexico, Cactus Chimney Boulders

On February 21, Callaway Lewis (female, age 8), her older brother, and her father, Anthony, were climbing around the Cactus Chimney Boulders, one of several small bouldering areas just east of the city limits, when the rock Callaway was climbing s...

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| Published 2020 | Author News reports and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Inadequate Equipment New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine

Around noon on March 9, the AMC Hermit Lake caretaker reported seeing a person “tomahawking”—i.e., falling end over end—the length of the gully called Chute in Tuckerman Ravine. The caretaker and a snow ranger responded and were pleased to find th...

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| Published 2020 | Author Mount Washington Avalanche Center


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Improvised Harness Failure New Hampshire, Rumney, Parking Lot Wall

On September 25, at about 4 p.m., a climber (age 68) was attempting to climb Dead Sea Equestrian (5.7 sport) at the Parking Lot Wall of Rumney. Near the top, approximately 50 feet above the base, he called for his belayer to “take” his weight onto...

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| Published 2020 | Author Lt. James Kneeland, New Hampshire Fish and Game Dept.


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Severed Rope New Hampshire, White Mountains, Cannon Cliff

On September 20, Ben Kessel (34) and Emma Leigh Donahue (30s) were climbing Moby Grape (8 pitches, 5.8 PG-13) on Cannon Cliff. Both were active within the MIT Outing Club and experienced rock climbers. Conditions were windy but pleasant, and there...

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| Published 2020 | Author Kevin Soleil and Bill Moriarty, New Hampshire Fish and Game Department


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Downclimbing 4th-Class Terrain Nevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Oak Creek Canyon

On October 31 at approximately 7 a.m., my climbing partner and I set out to climb Solar Slab in Oak Creek Canyon. At about 8:30 a.m. we arrived at the base of a large gully in the Lower Solar Slab area. [Editor’s Note: Solar Slab, a classic multi-...

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| Published 2020 | Author Anonymous report from the clmber


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Anchor — Rope Too Short, Complacency Montana, Paradise Valley, Allenspur Main Crag

On March 20, a pair of climbers (Climber 1, male, 28, and Climber 2, female, 27, both intermediate-level climbers) headed to the Main Crag at Allenspur and packed their “all around” 50-meter rope, since that length is adequate for most (but not al...

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| Published 2020 | Author Climber 1


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection Montana, Gallatin Canyon, The Watchtower

On August 23, Eric (64) and his climbing partner Ed (57) were planning to link the standard route up the Watchtower (5.8) with Silver Foxes (5.8) on the Watchtower’s upper tier, and then finish on Spare Rib (5.8), all traditional lines on the east...

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| Published 2020 | Author The Climbers, Gallatin County SAR and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Essentials — Dynamic Belaying The Art of the Soft Catch

Photo by François Lebeau Lead climbing is a two-person sport. Arguably, the climber has the easy job—they climb and try not to let go. The belayer has the hard job of managing the rope and continuously planning for a fall. They are constantly...

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| Published 2020 | Author Lindsay Auble


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Belay Error Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Valley

Around noon on October 3, a climber took a lead fall near the top of Trundling Kentucky (5.7 sport) at the Bruise Brothers Wall. The belayer failed to arrest the leader’s fall, resulting in a 35- to 40-foot ground fall onto rocky terrain at the ba...

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| Published 2020 | Author Erik Kloeker, Wolfe County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Leader Falls With Injuries Kentucky, Red River Gorge

On October 13, a climber swung into the wall after taking a lead fall on Air-Ride Equipped (5.11a sport) at Solarium in Muir Valley, resulting in a broken and dislocated ankle. On October 16, an experienced female climber fell off Push Present (5...

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| Published 2020 | Author Erik Kloeker, Wolfe County Search and Rescue