Accident Reports ANAM
Loose Rock New Mexico, Cactus Chimney Boulders

On February 21, Callaway Lewis (female, age 8), her older brother, and her father, Anthony, were climbing around the Cactus Chimney Boulders, one of several small bouldering areas just east of the city limits, when the rock Callaway was climbing s...

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| Published 2020 | Author News reports and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Inadequate Equipment New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine

Around noon on March 9, the AMC Hermit Lake caretaker reported seeing a person “tomahawking”—i.e., falling end over end—the length of the gully called Chute in Tuckerman Ravine. The caretaker and a snow ranger responded and were pleased to find th...

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| Published 2020 | Author Mount Washington Avalanche Center


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Improvised Harness Failure New Hampshire, Rumney, Parking Lot Wall

On September 25, at about 4 p.m., a climber (age 68) was attempting to climb Dead Sea Equestrian (5.7 sport) at the Parking Lot Wall of Rumney. Near the top, approximately 50 feet above the base, he called for his belayer to “take” his weight onto...

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| Published 2020 | Author Lt. James Kneeland, New Hampshire Fish and Game Dept.


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall — Severed Rope New Hampshire, White Mountains, Cannon Cliff

On September 20, Ben Kessel (34) and Emma Leigh Donahue (30s) were climbing Moby Grape (8 pitches, 5.8 PG-13) on Cannon Cliff. Both were active within the MIT Outing Club and experienced rock climbers. Conditions were windy but pleasant, and there...

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| Published 2020 | Author Kevin Soleil and Bill Moriarty, New Hampshire Fish and Game Department


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Downclimbing 4th-Class Terrain Nevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Oak Creek Canyon

On October 31 at approximately 7 a.m., my climbing partner and I set out to climb Solar Slab in Oak Creek Canyon. At about 8:30 a.m. we arrived at the base of a large gully in the Lower Solar Slab area. [Editor’s Note: Solar Slab, a classic multi-...

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| Published 2020 | Author Anonymous report from the clmber


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Anchor — Rope Too Short, Complacency Montana, Paradise Valley, Allenspur Main Crag

On March 20, a pair of climbers (Climber 1, male, 28, and Climber 2, female, 27, both intermediate-level climbers) headed to the Main Crag at Allenspur and packed their “all around” 50-meter rope, since that length is adequate for most (but not al...

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| Published 2020 | Author Climber 1


Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall — Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection Montana, Gallatin Canyon, The Watchtower

On August 23, Eric (64) and his climbing partner Ed (57) were planning to link the standard route up the Watchtower (5.8) with Silver Foxes (5.8) on the Watchtower’s upper tier, and then finish on Spare Rib (5.8), all traditional lines on the east...

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| Published 2020 | Author The Climbers, Gallatin County SAR and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Essentials — Dynamic Belaying The Art of the Soft Catch

Photo by François Lebeau Lead climbing is a two-person sport. Arguably, the climber has the easy job—they climb and try not to let go. The belayer has the hard job of managing the rope and continuously planning for a fall. They are constantly...

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| Published 2020 | Author Lindsay Auble


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Belay Error Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Valley

Around noon on October 3, a climber took a lead fall near the top of Trundling Kentucky (5.7 sport) at the Bruise Brothers Wall. The belayer failed to arrest the leader’s fall, resulting in a 35- to 40-foot ground fall onto rocky terrain at the ba...

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| Published 2020 | Author Erik Kloeker, Wolfe County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Leader Falls With Injuries Kentucky, Red River Gorge

On October 13, a climber swung into the wall after taking a lead fall on Air-Ride Equipped (5.11a sport) at Solarium in Muir Valley, resulting in a broken and dislocated ankle. On October 16, an experienced female climber fell off Push Present (5...

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| Published 2020 | Author Erik Kloeker, Wolfe County Search and Rescue


Climbs And Expeditions ANAM
Rappel Error — Off Route Idaho, City of Rocks National Reserve

In the midafternoon of May 31, rangers at the City of Rocks National Reserve received word that a 67-year-old female climber had fallen while rappelling from Jackson’s Thumb and had reportedly broken her ankles. She and her partner had ascended Th...

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| Published 2020 | Author Stephen King, ranger at City of Rocks National Reserve


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error — Distraction, No Stopper Knot Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Little Eiger

On August 10, I got off work at 5 p.m. and my partner and I set out to Little Eiger, a crag we had never visited. I knew from reading some route descriptions that we would need a 70-meter rope and at least 16 draws. We first climbed Busch Gardens ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Anonymous Climber


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled Out Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, West Ridge

On September 27, a climber fell to the ground while leading Funeral March (5.9+), a wide crack climb. Funeral March is protected by very large cams, and the climber bumped one of these up the crack for about 10 feet. He had placed another cam but ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Climber Post at Mountain Project and Rocky Mountain Rescue Group


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Unable to Find Descent Route Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Redgarden Wall

On March 22, two climbers called for assistance after dark when they were unable to find the descent route upon completing Anthill Direct (5 pitches, 5.9-). After searching for the correct way down in the dark without headlamps, and eventually get...

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| Published 2020 | Author Rocky Mountain Rescue Group


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Fixed Protection Pulled Out Colorado, Boulder, Flatirons, Seal Rock

I have been frequenting the Flatirons for climbing since moving to Boulder five years ago. In the fall of 2020, I started projecting Primate, a 5.13b route at Seal Rock with a mix of bolt and traditional protection. I visited the route four times ...

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| Published 2020 | Author Patrick Hardy


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall on Rock — Climbing Without A Rope Colorado, Boulder, Second Flatiron

On October 30, 49-year-old Andrew Caplan fell from the north side of the Second Flatiron near the top of a climb. Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks rangers arrived on scene just after 9:20 a.m. and began resuscitation efforts, but the patient ...

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| Published 2020 | Author The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Colorado, Boulder, First Flatiron

The 10-pitch, 1,000-foot east face of the First Flatiron, rated 5.6 R, was my goal for August 10. I had not put boot to rock in over six months, owing in part to inactivity compelled by the COVID-19 pandemic. My partner, age 56, and I (69) both be...

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| Published 2020 | Author Terry Price


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Protection Pulled Out Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Bell Buttress

On August 13, after climbing a few routes at Bell Buttress, I decided to give a redpoint attempt at Arms Bazaar (5.12a trad). I had spent two previous sessions on the route: one in August 2019 and one the previous week. I had the route fairly dial...

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| Published 2020 | Author Joel May


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Inadequate Protection Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock

Molly Mitchell attempting Crank It with traditional protection. The four pieces that pulled out in her fall are marked. Photo by Tory Powers In the  evening  of  October  1,  professional  climber  Molly  Mitchell  (27)  attempted a tradition...

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| Published 2020 | Author Molly Mitchell


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Failure to Self-Arrest Colorado, Indian Peaks Wilderness, Mt. Neva, Juliet Couloir

At 5:30 a.m. on June 11, a 22-year-old male left the Fourth of July trailhead to attempt the Juliet Couloir, a short, moderate snow route on Mt. Neva (12,814 feet). As he was nearing the cornice at the top, he fell. He had an ice axe but failed to...

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| Published 2020 | Author Rocky Mountain Rescue Group