Alex Gonzalez and I took advantage of a good weather window in mid-July to open a new route on Peak 4,300m, a sharply pointed summit nestled between Odessa and Kyrkchilta peaks in the Ak-su Valley. The new route runs up the northeastern spur of t...
Felix Hatzold, Annick Pietzonka, and I entered the Kuilu Valley on July 27 in a truck with the driver blasting Russian rap music. After a bumpy all-day drive from Karakol, we had an exciting crossing of the Kuilu River, which placed us very close ...
Though it was an objective long coveted by Juneau locals, the prominent couloir on the southwest face of Dean (5,883’)—whose name appears on official maps without any modifier such as Peak or Mountain—had, to my knowledge, never received a proper ...
The fifth and final pitch of Tio Charli, on the northeast face of Nieras, as it was climbed in 2019. In 2021, two Swedes climbed an alternate finish up the steep ice visible in the center of the photo, calling it Ghost. Photo by Rafa Vadillo. ...
In August, a team of six climbers—Niels Brack, Miel Cox, Annelore Orije, Loïc Puylaert, Cedric De Smet, and me, Christian Suys—spent four weeks in the beautiful Djangart Range. After three days of driving from Bishkek, we made it to some barracks...
Luka Kramarič, Florjan Lajmiš, Špela Ozimek, Krištof Rener, Nejc Štebe, and Mojca Zajc, all Slovenians, arrived in Bishkek on September 3, 2022. We chose the Djangart region because it seemed like a good location to dip our toes into expediti...
Photos by 100 Limite Filmes / Murilo Vargas Conceiving of and realizing big climbing projects, at least for me, requires an obsessive mindset. I’ve spent many late nights in the last decade diving down internet rabbit holes in search of the w...
I first encountered Pedra Riscada in 2021 during a trip with friends to repeat some lines there. What blew me away as much as the soaring granite walls was that there was no established route up the heart of the steep and beautiful northeast face....
In AA] 2011 we reported the second ascent of Reddomain (6,112m) by a different (northern) approach to the west ridge from that used in 1999 by the Japanese first ascensionists. In fact this was the third ascent, the second taking place on October ...
At the end of February 2024, after a season of bad conditions and weather, a spell of high pressure appeared in the forecast for Southern Patagonia. I prepared to make my third foray into the Bader Valley of the season, hoping to finish a line I h...
The complete traverse of the Torres del Paine went from southwest to northeast over (A) Torre Sur, (B) Torre Central, (C) Torre Norte, and (D) Peineta. The line and bivouacs are marked. Photo by Francisco Bedeschi. On February 22, 2024, Seán...
In 1991, Germans Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Norbert Bätz, Peter Dittrich, and Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent of Riders on the Storm (1,300m, 7c A3). The 38-pitch rock line, which tracks up the center of the east face of Torre Central, wa...
Our “fair means” expedition lasted from July 6 to August 10 and began in Tasiilaq, where Anne Flechsig, Timon Kaufman, Ramona Volken, and I (all Swiss) loaded 250kg of gear and food into four kayaks and spent the next two and a half days paddling ...
Base camp for the 2023 expedition: The formation climbed by Faffin in Baffin is on the right, and Angijuqqaaq is in back. Photo: Ky Hart Collection. One hundred and fifty kilometers southeast of Iqaluit is the broad ice cap of the Grinnell Gl...
The 2023–2024 season in the Chaltén Massif was statistically “average” for weather, meaning there were few windows and conditions were challenging. For a change, and thankfully, there were no fatalities in the massif. There were only two serious ...
The Cordillera Emperador Guillermo is located north of Coyhaique and a few kilometers west of the town of Villa Ortega. Despite the proximity to town, the range emanates a great deal of mystery and solitude. Spanning about five kilometers from sou...
(A) Shkhara’s main summit (5,203m) from the south. The six-day traverse began with the Beknu-Khergiani Route (1), continued along the ridge to the west summit (B), and descended the Rolleston-Longstaff Route (2), passing over the south summit (C...
In 2020, while attempting to summit Cerro Aparejo, a friend and I noticed an attractive summit visible from the road through the Aparejo Valley in Chile’s Cajon de Maipo, two hours from Santiago. We analyzed possible routes on the peak’s south fac...
In May, Tiphaine Dupérier and Nouria Newman (both from France) made a nearly complete ski descent of the North Peak of Ushba via the north ridge and northwest face. Ushba’s North Peak (4,690m) was first skied in 2017 by Miroslav Pet’o (Slovakia),...
On August 29, Temo Qurdiani and I drove in a 4WD vehicle from Mestia to the remote village of Adishi. (This road still does not appear on Google Maps.) Our idea was to climb the iconic Tetnuldi (4,858m) by an impressive and “forgotten” face. Adis...