Luka Kramarič, Florjan Lajmiš, Špela Ozimek, Krištof Rener, Nejc Štebe, and Mojca Zajc, all Slovenians, arrived in Bishkek on September 3, 2022. We chose the Djangart region because it seemed like a good location to dip our toes into expedition climbing. 

We arranged transportation, base camp equipment, food, and our cook (Davran) with the agency Kyrgyzland. On our third day of driving, we reached a point just below Djangart Pass (4,158m), then headed across the pass on foot and into the valley, where we set up our base camp (41.710150N, 78.887058E). Horses from Uch-Koshkon carried our gear over the pass.

We found the glaciers in very good condition, and the north faces seemed solid and iced up. During the 15 days we were in the valley or climbing above it, the weather remained relatively stable and predictable. There were two days when it snowed down to base camp level, and otherwise only short afternoon showers. We split into three teams of two, making a number of two- or three-day excursions, with the first day usually involving a lengthy approach and a river crossing from base camp.

First, Nejc and Luka journeyed south to the head of the eastern branch of the Djangartynbashi Glacier. On September 10, they climbed the icy west face of Pik Petra (4,997m, 41.623100N, 78.922860E), making the first ascent. Their route (500m, D 70°) finished with a short ridge. At the same time, the other two teams climbed an easy glaciated peak south of Djangart Pass that they named Ak Ayuu (4,878m).

After some rest in base camp and a day of rain and snow, Florjan and Mojca attempted an unclimbed peak 5km south of base camp, but bailed because of bad snow conditions. Meanwhile, Nejc, Luka, Krištof, and Špela spent a day making the approach to the Djangartynbashi Glacier and setting up camp. Nejc and Luka then attempted to climb the northeast face of Pik Illumination but retreated because of deep snow and a storm. The next day, Krištof and Luka climbed an easy glaciated peak they named Pik Barsik (4,874m, 41.600533N, 78.856200E) and attempted an unclimbed peak (41.60070N, 78.85630E), stopping just below the top because they couldn’t climb an overhanging cornice.

In the next window of good weather, team members climbed most of Horseman’s Horror (700m, D+ 80°) on the 4,766m Pik Howard-Bury (AAJ 2011). However, they turned around below the summit because of a thunderstorm.

Unfortunately, our agency made a scheduling mistake that led to us being forced to leave the valley almost a week earlier than we’d planned. Before flying home, we had the chance to do some sport climbing and an easy ridge climb in the Ala-Archa national park near Bishkek. Despite the early departure, we think the expedition was successful. We gained a lot of experience and had a good time.

— Nejc Štebe, Slovenia