Our “fair means” expedition lasted from July 6 to August 10 and began in Tasiilaq, where Anne Flechsig, Timon Kaufman, Ramona Volken, and I (all Swiss) loaded 250kg of gear and food into four kayaks and spent the next two and a half days paddling to our first objective: the Fox Jaw Cirque. We had hoped to visit the Mythics Cirque, but large quantities of sea ice made this impossible in kayaks.

Once at Fox Jaw, we climbed three established routes on Baby Molar, Left Rabbit Ear, and Incisor before paddling back south half a day to access an impressive gray wall near the fjord entrance. From a camp near the shore, we followed traces of a path to reach the glacier, then walked up this easily for four hours to reach the north-facing rock wall at 65°59’09.8”N, 36°55’17.4”W.

We decided to try two lines on the left side, which appeared to have the most stable rock. Anne and I headed for a dihedral, and Ramona and Timon took the most logical line farther right. Both lines had sections of loose rock—including huge blocks on our route—where we needed to climb carefully. In the middle of the wall, we joined Ramona and Timon’s line. It was already midnight, so we moved right onto easier terrain and climbed a final three or four pitches to a point where we discovered a bolted anchor, astonished to learn we weren’t the only fools to climb this wall. By 1 a.m. we were on top.

We made ten rappels down the face, the first two from previously established anchors. Our name for the formation was Peanut Wall. We called the left-hand route Was Für ein Peanuts (500m, 12 pitches, 6c, with an A1 pendulum). Ramona and Timon’s line was Double Peanuts (500m, 12 pitches, 6b+), with a wonderful crack on pitch four.

Following two delightful days of kayaking, we reached Ikateq Fjord and camped on Qianarteq Island, beneath the northwest face of Peak 620m. An hour’s hike and 30 minutes of scrambling brought us to the face.

Again, we began climbing in two pairs. Ramona and I started left of Timon and Anne, who reached and then climbed the big left-facing corner on this part of the wall. When we encountered a badly protected section, Ramona and I moved across to join the other team. Above this point, Anna led the crux pitch (7a) over a big roof. We followed a series of beautiful cracks through the twilight hours and arrived on the summit at 3:30 a.m. We descended the west ridge and arrived back at camp after a 20-hour day. The 600m route (15 pitches) was mainly 5c–6b, with a few pitches up to 7a.

During our stay in Greenland, we climbed everything clean and left only slings and two nuts where we rappelled. [The team’s route on Peak 620m, Eternal Sunshine, appears to share significant ground with a line climbed solo in 2019, with a self- belay in places, by David Gladwin. He also followed the large left-facing corner low on the face, then finished about 50m right of the summit. He estimated his route to be British E2 5c (AAJ 2020).]

— Lydiane Vikol, Switzerland