American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26680 Records

Title Publication Year
Evacuate an Injured Partner
ONE OF THE MOST COMMON injuries for climbers during a fall is a sprain or break of the lower leg. ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2018
Know the Ropes: Safer 4th Class
MANAGING TERRAIN  with a low probability but high consequence of falling—typically described as third-class, fourth-class, and low ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2018
Gurja Himal, Base Camp Tragedy
Sometime between the evening of October 10 and the following day, five Korean climbers and four Nepalese staff were killed at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Hutsa, Southeast Ridge and East Face
WHILE ACCLIMATIZING for another objective in the Genyen Massif, Zhang Qingwei, Huang Siyuan, and I saw the pyramid peak of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Minya Konka, Alpine-Style: A New Route from the North
Success often leads us to ignore many potential problems. Failures amplify our mistakes. — Li Zongli In 2016, Li Zongli ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
First Ascents of Limi Koti, Shikan Ri, Steph Himal, and Phasang Peak
Looking south up the Nying Glacier to the mountains of Nyalu Lek. (A) Nying Himal (6,140m). (B) A broad summit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Suma Brakk, South Ridge, The Big Easy
AFTER REPEATING Alexander Huber's 2012 route Nirwana (multipitch 8c+) in Austria, I met him in 2016 at one of his lectures ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lachit Valley: Baba Hussein; Chhota Bhai, South Ridge; Changi II, South Face and West Ridge
Nelson Neirinck (Belgium), Jess Roskelley, and I (both USA) spent 25 days exploring the Lachit Valley, from July 22 to August 15 . The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nevado Atoroma, Northwest Ridge, Variation; Nevado Yaypuri, South-southwest Face
Looking up the Atoroma Valley with Atoroma’s southwest face on the right and the rocky south and southeast faces ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Aoraki/Mt. Cook, Sheila Face, New Routes
THE SHEILA FACE of Aoraki/Mt. Cook—the northwest face—sits at the head of the Hooker ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
La Garganta
In December 2017, Pete Fasoldt (USA) established and freed La Garganta (6 pitches, 5.12+), up-canyon from La Boca . Fasoldt climbed the route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Shot Tower, Free Ascent, and Other Climbs
BROOKS RANGE Aviation delivered Drew Lovell, Forest McBrian, David Moskowitz, and me to Circle Lake on a warm and sunny ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Peaks South of Mt. Upton
Jonathan Wakefield and Glenn Wilks (U.K.) flew onto the unnamed glacier that flows toward the Logan Glacier from Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Logan, Solo Ascent and Rescue
In 2017, Canada’s 150th anniversary, I tried to reach the summit of Mt. Logan via the King Trench with a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Vancouver Island: Significant Ascents from 2016 to Early 2019
THE RUGGED MOUNTAINS of Vancouver Island have seen much activity, from new rock routes to major ice lines and first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Macdonald: The Indirect American
I HADN'T BEEN DREAMING of mountains . I was just enjoying my fall, soaking up the sunshine and going rock climbing, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pigeon Spire, South Face, Draco
Josh Lavigne and Craig McGee completed a beautiful new route up the south face of Pigeon Spire in August, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pigeon Feathers and Snowpatch Spire: Three New Routes
I first went to explore the west face of Lost Feather Pinnacle in East Creek Basin in 2016 with Lisa Mullaly, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Pigeon Feathers: Friday the 13th, Nightrain
I VISITED the East Creek Basin on two separate occasions in 2018. On the first trip, I guided a nice fellow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Year in the Rockies
The Milkwater (1,250m, V WI4 M4) on the east side of Mt. Temple. Striving for the Moon takes the obvious ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Bylot Island: Ski Expedition and Various Ascents
DURING 28 DAYS in the month of May, Grant Dixon, Louise Jarry, Marek Vokac, and I skied a “horseshoe” loop through ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mt. Menhir, East Face, and other Ascents
Between the 15th of June and the 15th of September, Enzo Oddo and I established three new routes on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Himjung, Second Ascent and Traverse via West Ridge and North Ridge
Austrians Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs, and Stefan Larcher, on their first Himalayan expedition, planned to make the second ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
First Ascent of Pankar Himal, by Northeast Ridge
The Japanese “Himalaya Camp” is a project of Yasuhiro Hanatani, the purpose being “succession and progress in mountaineering culture.”&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Peak ca 5,840m, South Face and West Ridge
On November 5, 2017, Tore Sunde-Rasmussen (Norway),Dawa Tashi Sherpa, Tamting Sherpa, and Thundu Sherpa made the first ascent of an unnamed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Phuletate, Reconnaissance and Rock Tower on West Ridge
In 2017 I located an area of the Khumuche Himal that I felt worth exploring. This chain of peaks lies on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Nupla Kang, South Face and Southwest Ridge
In 2017, Garrett Madison led a commercial expedition that made the first ascent of Tharke Kang (6,710m), a summit on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Mountains of the Mekong Headwaters
AFTER 14 MONTHS OF PLANNING, I landed at Yushu Airport (3,800m) in Qinghai to meet my companions Ben and Jos Hoetjes (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
La Popa, East Face, Super Blood Wolf
The east face of La Popa, showing (1) Super Blood Wolf (275m, 5.11) and (2) El Gavilan (9 pitches, 5.13a). Spanish Harlem (11 pitches, 5.11+ A0), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Kang Yatse Group: Shan Ri, North Face and East Ridge
In August I guided Pedro Costa, Tiago Faneca, and João Lopes on an expedition to Ladakh . We spent four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Lobuche East, Southwest Pillar, Hiding in Plain Sight
Lobuche East (6,090m) is easily overlooked as a target for serious climbs. In fact, we did exactly that . Daniel Joll ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Sharphu II, East Face, Samsara
In October, Aivaras Sajus and I made the first known ascent of Sharphu II (6,328m, 27°45'29.87"N, 87°55'7.92"E) via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
El Toro, La Sombra Luminosa
The north side of El Toro showing approximate lines of (1) El Sendero Luminoso and (2) La Sombra Luminosa. Photo by Drew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
San Isidro Canyon, Alas de Ángel
THE STATE of Nuevo León in Mexico is most famous among climbers for El Potrero Chico, north of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Flat Top and Kishtwar Eiger, Attempts
Flat Top (6,100m) and Kishtwar Eiger (ca 6,000m) are situated above the Brammah Glacier on the southwestern side of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Arjuna North, Southwest Face, Attempt
In September, Josie McKee, Caro North, and I traveled to the Kijai Nala (valley) with the intention of climbing the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Aal Izz Well: The Northeast Face of Cerro Kishtwar
I GOT A MESSAGE from Hiroki Yamamoto: “I’m going to India with Yusuke Sato this fall, and I’m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Western At Bashi Range, Many First Ascents
View east from the ascent of Pik Vulture to (A) White Lady, (B) Rabbit Ear, (C) Twin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Djangart Range: Many First Ascents
AT THE END of August, Jorian Bakker (27), Noël Diepens (31), Wout Martens (27), Line van den Berg (26), Rik van Odenhoven (27), and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chulu West and Chulu Southeast, Historical Revision
The Chulu Group from the Annapurna Circuit trekking route to the south: (A) Chulu West, (B) Chulu East, and (C) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Drangnag Ri, Southwest Ridge, Bizipenak
Mikel Zabalza led an expedition of the Spanish Alpine Team to the Rolwaling in 2017 ( AAJ 2018 ). The following year he returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Tsartse, Southwest Face, and Historical Notes
At 10:45 a.m. on September 25, Koki Ikeda, Daisuke Shimozuru, Yujiro Suga, and Asahi Takeshita (Japan) with Dendi Sherpa, Ngima Sherpa, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Chemma, Northwest Ridge
An Indian Himalayan Club team comprising Rajesh Gadgil, Ratnesh Javeri, Vineeta Muni, Imran Pathan, and Ashish Prabhu, led by veteran ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Fall From Top of Cliff – Inadequate Protection
On July 9, a 23-year-old man with about two months of climbing experience was scouting for new climbs at the top ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2019
Peak 6,050m, Southeast Face
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr, and Guido Unterwurzacher traveled to the Baspa Valley in late ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Changabang, North Face, Rapid Repeat Ascent (No Summit)
In mid-May, Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, and Sébastien Ratel from the prolific Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Janhukot: The First Ascent of a High Gangotri Peak
SUNDENVAN, THE LATERAL moraine meadow under Kedar Dome, is the highest base camp site on the Gangotri Glacier. I have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Barrah Massif, Morning Sun Street
AFTER ASKING Arnaud Petit, a great French climber with experience in Wadi Rum, for various ideas, we arrived in Jordan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Wadi Sulam, First Routes
  IN APRIL, a group of 13 climbers led by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) engaged in an exploratory expedition, organized ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Turkey: Recent Rock and Alpine Routes
Tunç Fındık and partners have developed numerous routes in the mountains of Turkey, with roughly 25 long new rock, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019