Our team from the Alpinism Technical Group of the Balearic Islands (FBME, Federació Balear de Muntanyisme I Escalada) spent two months in Peru between June and July 2025. After establishing a new route on Santa Cruz Chico and resting in Huaraz, Tomeu Rubí and I headed to the Urus Group in Quebrada Ishinca. 

On July 16, Tomeu and I established our high camp at 4,250 meters. We originally planned to climb Urus West, but after seeing an evident line on the southwest face of Urus Central (5,495m, -9.35806, -77.4436), we changed our objective. On July 17, we began our attempt at 4 a.m., navigating talus and climbing an ice pitch to reach the glacier. 

We started up the wall at 6:30 a.m., climbing one broken rock pitch, then six more pitches of good snow and ice, bringing us to the summit at 10:30 a.m. We descended the west ridge, downclimbing and making two rappels to the col between Urus West and Central. From there we followed a glacier and moraine back to our high camp, getting back at 1:30 p.m. after nine hours of activity. 

Back in Huaraz, we discovered the route we had climbed was in fact a variation of El Vuelo del Inca, climbed by Eric Albino and Beto Pinto in 2009 (see AAJ 2010). Today the peak has much less snow.

— Cati Lladó, Spain