Kylus Hart starting the quest up the headwall of Sikunga Express. Photo by Erik Boomer “How cold is it going to be?” I asked Erik Boomer. “Hmm, hard to say—definitely won’t be hot.” Over the course of 30 days, from April 30 to May 28, we had...
The summit tower of Freya Peak, showing the technical final stretch of Celine’s Boot Camp on the northwest face. Photo by Pachi Ibarra In mid-July 2025, I set out with Chilean climbers María Paz “Pachi” Ibarra and Violeta Sepúlveda on a month...
At the end of July, a team of four from Scotland’s University of Stirling—Rosie Aldridge, Dylan Coker, Megan Cumming, and Benjamin Toole—established a base camp on the north shore of Rodin Bay in Sermiligaaq Fjord (66.084906, -36.600279) and spent...
On August 12, Virgile Devin, Fred1eric Machefert, and Arthur Jourdan from France climbed a new route up the southwest face of Glacier Peak (approx. 60°17’47.18”N, 45°16’41.12”W) in the center of Sermersoq Island (various spellings), north of Nanor...
In the summer of 2025, Chase Leary and Andy Puhvel made more than a dozen trips to the east face of Mt. Goode (13,085’) to complete a route started seven years earlier by Leary, Jason Lakey, and Sarah Land. The result was The Goode, the Grateful, ...
Lost and Found (1,500’, 5.5 M4) on the north face of Mt. Emerson (13,210’). The route starts to the right of the classic North Couloir (Clyde, 1926), which the Lost and Found team descended. Photo by Mike McLaughlin As with many great faces i...
The steep upper reaches of the Candlestick’s west face. The first ascent route is not visibile but is near the left skyline. Photo by Daniel Jeffcoach In my years of exploring the Great Western Divide and Monarch Divide in the Sierra Nevada, ...
Zach Lovell on one of the crux 5.10a pitches on Shits and Glitters, near the summit of Four Gables. Photo by Sara Green “Zach, we already thought of a name,” said my fiancée, Syd Knadler, as she manteled onto the summit plateau of Four Ga...
Jake Whisenant onsighting the 5.11c Glass Elevator roof, the third pitch of Wonka’s Way (7 pitches, 5.11c) on Hershey’s Kiss. Photo by Leo Franch Over the long Fourth of July weekend, Matt Allen and I made the soul-crushing trek over Taboose ...
Japhy Dhungana on the 5.13a crux pitch of Dr. Bear Love Free (800’, 4 pitches, 5.13a), on the north buttress of Merriam Peak, Granite Park area, Sierra Nevada, California. Photo by Zach Lovell Sometimes you don’t have to pick between quality ...
Approximate route line on the northwest headwall of Castle Mountain. Photo by Greg Barrett The striking northwest headwall of Castle Mountain jumps out in the setting sun while you’re driving south on Highway 1. I texted my extremely dialed f...
The line of Time (24 pitches, VI 5.10 A2) on the west-facing Red Alert Wall. Photo by Cameron Jackson Since first learning about the Daniels River Valley (DRV) and Red Alert Wall (50.37517, -124.35519), I’ve spent countless hours on CalTopo,...
Mt. Robson from the south, showing the The Great Couloir in February 2023. Photo by Alex Buisse / Mont Blanc Lines I’m so relieved to be on the other side of this project. Skiing the south face of Mt. Robson (3,959m) had been a dream for year...
Pitch four (5.10+) on Iron Tears. Photo by Gabs Clark On August 17, 2025, Gabs Clark and I set out to repeat Murder by Numbers (5.11, Ruddy-Slawinski, 2007) on the east face of the Rimwall, but on our way to the route, a striking dihedral cau...
Giacomo Meliffi climbing pitch six of L’oro dello Yukon. Photo by Dario Eynard Visiting the Cirque of the Unclimbables and climbing a new route has always been one of my dreams. Doing it together with three friends—Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eyn...
The view up the southeast side of Gilt Peak from Frodo’s Knob. Team Photo Gilt Peak (1,893m/6,211’, 53.942523, -129.222608) is deep in the Coast Mountains, within Foch-Gilttoyees Provincial Park. It’s one of the most visible mountains in the ...
Morning light on Howse Peak (3,295m), seen from high on Mt. Chephren. Photo by Nic Houser On August 4, 2024, at 4 p.m., Greg Barrett and I left Waterfowl Lakes Campground, eyes set again on the east face of Mt. Chephren (3,274m). We had prev...
Julie Beauchemin on pitch nine of Follow the Sun (520m, 5.10) on the east/southeast face of an unnamed tower 1.85 km west of Mt. Northumbria. Photo by Bruno-Pierre Couture On July 19, 2025, Julie Beauchemin, Trigg Sharp, and I hiked through a...
Ines Papert on the crux pitch of On the Wings of Maybe during the first free ascent. Photo by John Price On the Wings of Maybe (400m, 5.12+/5.13-) is an alpine rock climb on the Rimwall, a 2,680-meter summit of high-quality Palliser limestone...
In August, Cynthia Chung, Alec Cooper, Mark Hurst, and Laura Woodall climbed an eight-pitch route up east-facing slabs at the foot of Aegir Peak, behind the Ulu emergency shelter in the Weasel River Valley: Aegir Sanction (400m, 5.8 R A0). Details...