Huandoy Sur, South Face, French Route

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Author: The Editors. Climb Year: 1976. Publication Year: 1977.

After the Japanese and then the Italians made their respective routes on Huandoy Sur’s south face (see reports here and here), a French expedition attacked the face. The French were led by René Desmaison and composed of Pascal Ottmann, Maurice Faivre, Jean-Claude Salomon, Xavier Chappaz, Jean-Pierre Etienne, Didier Faivre, Pierre Pevry, the Swiss Christian Lemerich, Dr. Pierre Serguettaz and Dr. Patrick Vetter. The French did not start up the snow and ice spur on the right of the face but climbed the steep, nearly overhanging rocks directly below the summit in the center of the face. The bottom 1500 feet had many overhanging sections and much of the rock was exfoliated granite. The south face (like north faces in the Northern Hemisphere) catches little sun. The first 1300 feet were almost entirely direct aid. They placed 30 bolts and many pitons on what Desmaison described as the most difficult climbing he had ever done. After climbing the first 1500 feet, they joined the Italian route near the end of the Italians’ traverse and then followed that route to the summit. They placed four camps on the face, all of them with hammocks. The weather was often poor. They began on June 24 and had the route prepared by July 10. The summit was reached on July 22 by Desmaison, M. Faivre, Ottmann and Salomon.



Media Gallery