The Sage (1,060’, 10 pitches, 5.10c), seen here from the south, follows a series of corners, ramps, and chimneys up the southern aspect of the Fortress. Photo by Sam Fearer. In early August, under a full summer sun, Dave Meyer and I set out t...
In mid-August, David Stone and I hiked 20-plus miles from the Rancheria trailhead on the east side of Wishon Reservoir to explore Blackcap Basin and the White Divide, an obscure corner of the Sierra in the John Muir Wilderness, just outside the bo...
The many granite domes surrounding Courtright Reservoir have long been known for excellent rock and challenging friction and edging routes in a spectacular setting. Just east of this easily accessed area, if one is willing to engage in a longer an...
On the north aspect of Mt. Goode (13,085’), a beautiful peak near Bishop Pass, is a narrow gray panel, orange-streaked and mottled yellow, just to the right of the classic North Buttress route. A crack runs up the center of this panel, visible fro...
After a successful trip to Royce Lakes Basin earlier in the season (see report here), Matt O’Brien and I decided to return in July with our friend Daniel Dunn to try a new route on Merriam Peak. Heart of Darkness (1,100’, 9 pitches, IV 5.11-),...
Beding Go (6,125m), with the northwest ridge, climbed in 2024, on the left and the southeast ridge, the original 2015 route, on the right. Photo by Cian O'Brolchain. On October 13, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and I teamed up to climb the northwest ri...
About five kilometers south of Chhopa Bamare, along the frontier ridge, is an unnamed snow summit of 5,805m (28°0’42.43”N, 86°5’7.24”E). On December 29, 2023, eight days after reaching their base camp, a Nepalese team comprising Lila Bahadur Basne...
Chhopa Bamare (6,109m), showing (green) the original route up the southeast face and south ridge (2019) and (red) the 2024 route along the northeast ridge. Photo by Hiroyoshi Manome. Chhopa Bamare (6,109m, 28°3’32.05”N, 86°5’28.50”E) is the ...
Base camp with the west and northwest sides of Phurbi Chhyachu behind. Photo by Marek Disman. Drawn to Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637m) by its aesthetic appearance and sparse mountaineering history, Rosa Morotti and I aimed to repeat the original rou...
The 2024 Korean-Nepalese Route followed a slender couloir on the east-southeast face of Jugal I (6,591m). The rocky summit toward the left edge of the picture is Jugal III (6,184m). In the spring, a joint expedition from Korea and Nepal, led ...
The northwest face of Ganchempo and the route followed in November 2024. The climbers descended the standard route to the south-southwest. In 2023, Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrín climbed a parallel line to the left. Various unauthorized ascent...
The south-southeast ridge of Kimshung—(A) Main, (B) Central, and (C) Sar—with the Lirung Glacier to the left and Kimshing Glacier to the right. Photo by Damiano Levati. Located immediately opposite the east face of Langtang Lirung, Kimshung (...
View from the 6,200-meter camp on Phungi. The summit is the tiny, rounded snow top to the right and behind the rocky top. Photo by Fumiya Yokomichi. In post-monsoon 2022, three young Japanese climbers—Goto Kisuke, Adachi Masaki, and Kagami Ta...
Seen from the east, from left to right: the southern top of Samaya Himal, Chame East, Lamjung Himal, unnamed peak, and Annapurna II. Photo by Paulo Grobel. The Kajin Sara is a small group of peaks to the south of Kajin Sara Lake, forming a ri...
The west side of the Nilgiri massif, showing the attempted route on the west ridge. Behind, the highest point of the skyline ridge is Annapurna I. Photo by Takuya Mitoro. In the fall of 2018, Tatsuya Aoki and I attempted the north face of Nil...
The west side of Patrasi showing the route of the first ascent of Patrasi I, traversing over the summit of Patrasi II. Photo by Pasang Rinzee Sherpa. In the premonsoon season, Nepali guides Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang ...
In October, as part of a tourist development plan, the Nepal government announced it was opening 57 additional mountains for climbing expeditions. These range in altitude from just below 5,900m to a little over 6,800m. The list includes many litt...
The red line shows the route on the upper east ridge of Granite Peak. A) The large ledge below the start of the 5th-class climbing. This is where the group waited for the helicopter. B) This is the location of the belay/rappel anchor at the top ...
David Baumann prior to falling off The Fat One (WI3) in Hyalite Canyon. “I am really shocked that my lower tool came out. This picture shows my position before I fell while placing a screw.” In general, it is good to place both tools at almost f...
Code Red (WI5) before and after a dramatic collapse in January 2023. The lower column was clearly leaning to the right, but appeared too big and solid to collapse. The two climbers involved in this accident were fortunately unharmed. Photo: Laur...