Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Himaciña, Southeast Ridge Bolivia, Cordillera Real

On October 16, the day after climbing Surapatilla (see report here), Chris Knight and I left our camp at 4 a.m. to climb Himaciña (5,458m, as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°0'28.99"S, 68°21'43.16"W; Google Earth’s imagery is incorrectly flattened ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chhopa Bamare, First Ascent by Southeast Face and South Ridge Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

In February and March, John Kelley (USA) and I were in the northwestern Rolwaling to attempt the first ascent of Chhopa Bamare (6,109m, 28°3'28.67"N, 86°5'23.08"E), the highest of a group of peaks on the Tibetan border northwest of Lamabagar vill...

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| Published 2019 | Author Benjamin Billet


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Gyalsten, South-southeast Face Nepal, Jugal Himal

Gyalsten seen from the Jugal Glacier above advanced base. The line followed on the first ascent, via the south-southeast face, is marked. A col on the frontier ridge, off picture to the right, was reached in 1955 by a British women's expedition. ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Tul Singh Gurung and Rodolphe Popier


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 41, Northeast Face Nepal, Malahangur Himal – Khumbu Section

Previously unreported was the first ascent of the northeast face of Peak 41 (6,648m) by a Korean team in 2016. The ascent remained under the radar, even in Korea, likely because of the use of a helicopter for descent.The climbers arrived at their ...

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| Published 2016 | Author Rodolphe Popier and Kim Dong-soo


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Blåtinden, East Face Norway, Lyngen – Uløya Island

On July 23 we completed the first rock route on the east face of Blåtinden (1,142m), which we named Uløya, Welcome to (360m, Norwegian VI+). Our ascent took seven hours, during which we used neither bolts nor pitons. The rock is sharp, shattered a...

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| Published 2019 | Author Gosia Jurewicz and Jozek Soszynski


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Coricampana, South Face Ascent and History Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz

  (A) Huayna Cuno Collo (5,640m). (B) Huallatani or Huayna Cuno Collo East (ca 5,600m). (C) Coricampana (5,550m) and route of 2019 ascent. (D) Anco Collo (5,460m). (E) San Luis (5,620m). Photo by Roman Siegl Jeff Sandifort (a g...

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| Published 2019 | Author Roman Siegl


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Surapatilla, West Ridge Ascent, Northeast Ridge Descent Bolivia, Cordillera Real

After setting up camp at 4,700m in the valley used to approach the west side of Chachacomani, the following day (October 15) Chris Knight and I left at dawn to climb the western ridge of Cerro Surapatilla (as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°1'49.73...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Picacho Kasiri, South Face, Supay Pach Bolivia, Cordillera Real

After the successful first ascent of Picacho Kasiri's south face with Juan Gabriel Estellano (see AAJ 2019), I went back several times in early 2019 to explore the south face of its neighboring peak. Picacho Kasiri, as defined by the IMG map 5945-...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cuernos del Diablo, Lower Buttress Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz

During the first weekend in May, with Peñas Adventure School students Hernan Layme, Maria Teresa Llampa, Danitza Mamani,  Ever Mamani, Reyna Paye, and Jorge Vargas, Daniele Assolari and I traveled to Viloco and Kuchu Mocoya base camp. On the nice ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Davide Vitale


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Charquini, Southeast Face, Le Chat Bolivia, Cordillera Real

Early on the morning of April 28, Davide Vitale and I drove into the valley of Pampalarama, then hiked toward the east face of Charquini (5,392m), crossing a col at 5,000m. We decided to try a line on the left side of the southeast face, well to t...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chachacomani, South Face, Possible New Line Bolivia, Cordillera Real

On May 18, under a full moon, Hari Mix (USA) and I left the intermediate camp at around 4,800m on the normal route from the west up Chachacomani (6,074m). We followed the normal route for a while, then left it to cross the col at around 5,850m bet...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alexander von Ungern


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Negruni Range: Katatani, Southwest Face and Southeast Ridge; Purapurani Thojo, South Face Bolivia, Cordillera Real

During the second weekend in March, Daniele Assolari, Louise Aucquier, and I, from a camp near Laguna Khuna Kkota in the Negruni Range of the central Cordillera Real, climbed the glaciated southwest face and southeast ridge of Katatani. Named Cerr...

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| Published 2019 | Author Davide Vitale


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Barrill, King Cobra Alaska, Central Alaska Range

Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of Mt. Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack gravel” of the Ruth Gorge. I’m balanced on an arête,...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alastair McDowell


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Dickey, East Face, Ruth Gorge Grinder Alaska, Central Alaska Range

Every alpinist has one peak or a mountain feature they think about more than any other. The feature acts as a compass, providing direction and motivation for one’s climbing. For the past decade, my direction has come largely from the east face of ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Alan Rousseau


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Titanic, North Ridge; Peak 8,910', South Couloir Alaska, Alaska Range, Revelation Mountains

From March 11 to April 7, Bas Visscher and I visited Alaska. After six days of sitting out bad weather and enjoying the true Alaskan lifestyle in Talkeetna, we finally got flown into the range. To our surprise, we stepped off the plane and onto ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Niek de Jonge


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Citadel, Northwest Face, Agent of Chaos Alaska, Neacola Mountains

On March 29, Ryan Driscoll and I flew into the Neacola Mountains. With a sustained high-pressure system in place, we hoped to avoid the prolonged storms for which the range is known. As soon as we landed, we went on a recon ski and decided the ...

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| Published 2019 | Author Elliot Gaddy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Yentna Glacier, Four Ascents Alaska, Central Alaska Range

From June 4–14, our group, which included Elliot Gaddy, James Kesterson, Paul Muscat, Matt Sanborn, Glenn Wilson, and myself, climbed four peaks on the upper west lobe of the Yentna Glacier in Denali National Park. Three of them are believed to be...

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| Published 2019 | Author Joe Stock


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mammoth Crest, Blue Crag, New Routes California, Eastern Sierra

Blue Crag is a serene and diminutive moniker for an otherwise sizable and rowdy piece of rock. This cliff, located on the Mammoth Crest south of Mammoth Lakes, features compact, gneiss-like stone and only one previously established climb, which fo...

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| Published 2019 | Author Andy Anderson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Birch Mountain, North Ridge, Mutually Assured Choss California, Eastern Sierra

I’m trying to keep it together. The moves aren’t that hard, but the precariousness of the stacked blocks is terrifying. Spread your weight, Jack. Pull down, not out. No mistakes…Just then a sickening thud. It’s over, I think. A block has wiggled o...

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| Published 2019 | Author Jack Cramer


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dall Glacier, Mt. Katherine, First Ascent Alaska, Central Alaska Range

In an era of heightened climbing and skiing popularity, there are still many less-explored corners of the Alaska Range. Exploration can even come at moderate difficulties, which is exactly what Thomas Eaves and I found on the Dall Glacier during...

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| Published 2019 | Author Zach Lovell