On October 16, the day after climbing Surapatilla (see report here), Chris Knight and I left our camp at 4 a.m. to climb Himaciña (5,458m, as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°0'28.99"S, 68°21'43.16"W; Google Earth’s imagery is incorrectly flattened ...
In February and March, John Kelley (USA) and I were in the northwestern Rolwaling to attempt the first ascent of Chhopa Bamare (6,109m, 28°3'28.67"N, 86°5'23.08"E), the highest of a group of peaks on the Tibetan border northwest of Lamabagar vill...
Gyalsten seen from the Jugal Glacier above advanced base. The line followed on the first ascent, via the south-southeast face, is marked. A col on the frontier ridge, off picture to the right, was reached in 1955 by a British women's expedition. ...
Previously unreported was the first ascent of the northeast face of Peak 41 (6,648m) by a Korean team in 2016. The ascent remained under the radar, even in Korea, likely because of the use of a helicopter for descent.The climbers arrived at their ...
On July 23 we completed the first rock route on the east face of Blåtinden (1,142m), which we named Uløya, Welcome to (360m, Norwegian VI+). Our ascent took seven hours, during which we used neither bolts nor pitons. The rock is sharp, shattered a...
(A) Huayna Cuno Collo (5,640m). (B) Huallatani or Huayna Cuno Collo East (ca 5,600m). (C) Coricampana (5,550m) and route of 2019 ascent. (D) Anco Collo (5,460m). (E) San Luis (5,620m). Photo by Roman Siegl Jeff Sandifort (a g...
After setting up camp at 4,700m in the valley used to approach the west side of Chachacomani, the following day (October 15) Chris Knight and I left at dawn to climb the western ridge of Cerro Surapatilla (as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°1'49.73...
After the successful first ascent of Picacho Kasiri's south face with Juan Gabriel Estellano (see AAJ 2019), I went back several times in early 2019 to explore the south face of its neighboring peak. Picacho Kasiri, as defined by the IMG map 5945-...
During the first weekend in May, with Peñas Adventure School students Hernan Layme, Maria Teresa Llampa, Danitza Mamani, Ever Mamani, Reyna Paye, and Jorge Vargas, Daniele Assolari and I traveled to Viloco and Kuchu Mocoya base camp. On the nice ...
Early on the morning of April 28, Davide Vitale and I drove into the valley of Pampalarama, then hiked toward the east face of Charquini (5,392m), crossing a col at 5,000m. We decided to try a line on the left side of the southeast face, well to t...
On May 18, under a full moon, Hari Mix (USA) and I left the intermediate camp at around 4,800m on the normal route from the west up Chachacomani (6,074m). We followed the normal route for a while, then left it to cross the col at around 5,850m bet...
During the second weekend in March, Daniele Assolari, Louise Aucquier, and I, from a camp near Laguna Khuna Kkota in the Negruni Range of the central Cordillera Real, climbed the glaciated southwest face and southeast ridge of Katatani. Named Cerr...
Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of Mt. Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack gravel” of the Ruth Gorge. I’m balanced on an arête,...
Every alpinist has one peak or a mountain feature they think about more than any other. The feature acts as a compass, providing direction and motivation for one’s climbing. For the past decade, my direction has come largely from the east face of ...
From March 11 to April 7, Bas Visscher and I visited Alaska. After six days of sitting out bad weather and enjoying the true Alaskan lifestyle in Talkeetna, we finally got flown into the range. To our surprise, we stepped off the plane and onto ...
On March 29, Ryan Driscoll and I flew into the Neacola Mountains. With a sustained high-pressure system in place, we hoped to avoid the prolonged storms for which the range is known. As soon as we landed, we went on a recon ski and decided the ...
From June 4–14, our group, which included Elliot Gaddy, James Kesterson, Paul Muscat, Matt Sanborn, Glenn Wilson, and myself, climbed four peaks on the upper west lobe of the Yentna Glacier in Denali National Park. Three of them are believed to be...
Blue Crag is a serene and diminutive moniker for an otherwise sizable and rowdy piece of rock. This cliff, located on the Mammoth Crest south of Mammoth Lakes, features compact, gneiss-like stone and only one previously established climb, which fo...
I’m trying to keep it together. The moves aren’t that hard, but the precariousness of the stacked blocks is terrifying. Spread your weight, Jack. Pull down, not out. No mistakes…Just then a sickening thud. It’s over, I think. A block has wiggled o...
In an era of heightened climbing and skiing popularity, there are still many less-explored corners of the Alaska Range. Exploration can even come at moderate difficulties, which is exactly what Thomas Eaves and I found on the Dall Glacier during...