Accident Reports ANAM
DENALI NATIONAL PARK ACCIDENT SUMMARY 2025 Alaska, Denali National Park

Kalhiltna Base Camp (7200 feet) serves as the staging point for the majority of Denali expeditions, most of which arrive by ski plane from Talkeetna. Photo: Nomdeploom Denali (Mt. McKinley) mountaineering rangers and volunteers assessed 37 pa...

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| Published 2025 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
GROUND FALL FROM ANCHOR — Rappel Rope Not Properly Attached Alabama, Blount County, Ebell Mountain, Palisades Park

Buckets (5.5). This 2017 photo does not depict the 2024 accident. It does show, however, the total distance that an 11-year-old climber fell in November 2024. Note that the rock is steep and without large ledges or features that might have slowe...

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| Published 2024 | Author Dylan Addis, MD, and the Editors


Feature Article AAJ
Recon: Mt. Kenya The Heart and Soul of African Alpine Climbing

Peter Muambi Naituli climbing the final stretch up to the top of Batian, Mt. Kenya's highest summit. Photo by Gabriel Jackson A stark silhouette of black rock and glistening ice looms over the equator: the central ridgeline of Mt. Kenya, a pe...

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| Published N/A | Author Ian Thorpe


Feature Article AAJ
Alpine Connections: Kilian Jornet's 19-Day Traverse of the Alps' 4,000-Meter Peaks Europe, The Alps

From August 13 to 31, 2024, Kilian Jornet Burgada traversed the Alps from east to west by foot and bicycle, reaching all 82 of the 4,000-meter-plus summits. The previous fastest time for this link-up, using no motorized transportation, was 60 da...

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| Published 2024 | Author Dougald MacDonald


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Stutfield Peak East, East Ridge, No Fiesta, No Siesta Alberta, Canadian Rockies

Nick Baggaley nearing the final headwall on the east ridge of Stutfield Peak East. Photo by Greg Barrett In the late summer of 2025, after a ton of rain, there were a couple short weather windows for bigger objectives in the high peaks of the...

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| Published 2025 | Author Nick Baggaley, Canada


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Crosson Group Ski Traverse Alaska, Alaska Range

Shawn Jordan setting out for the 12,800-foot summit of Crosson. Mt. Foraker and the Sultana Ridge are in the background. Photo by Roo Streba Shawn Jordan and I are Tahoe-based skiers who have adventured together throughout the Sierra. The...

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| Published 2025 | Author Roo Streba


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
12 First Ascents in Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia, Wadi Al Disah, Bajdah and Wadi Dham

On the summit of Felsenbrüder in the Bajdah area. Photo by Daniel Hahn In January 2025, Michael “Michi” Bänsch, Daniel Hahn, and I embarked on an adventurous trip around Saudi Arabia to search for new climbs in a country that has only bee...

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| Published 2025 | Author Stephan “Seppo” Gerber, Germany


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Eleven New Routes in Oman Western Hajar, Oman

Marco Cocito on pitch one (7a) of Evening Coffee (180m, VIII+ max) on Jebel Fokha, Al Hamra Towers. Photo by Riccardo Volpiano Our expedition to Oman in February and March marked the conclusion of the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) Eagle Team pro...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marco Ghisio


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mukatila, Jebel Nassrani South Jordan, Wadi Rum

Photo by Florence Gross Nicole Berthod (Switzerland) and Fay Manners (U.K.) established an 11-pitch route up Jebel Nassrani South in November. The new route ascends the north face of the eastern pillar on Nassrani South, adjacent to the very ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dougald MacDonald with Fay Manners


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Alpine Report 2025 New Zealand, Southern Alps

The Donne Face of Mt. Revelation, showing the Big Easy (white line, Thomson-Vass, 2012) and A New Dawn (de Wilde–Le, 2025). Photo courtesy of ClimbNZ. Tanja de Wilde and Peter Le kicked off the southern summer in the Darran Mountains in Janua...

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| Published 2025 | Author Ben Dare


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Litner Group, Many First Ascents Idaho, Salmon River Mountains, Bighorn Crags

Panoramic view of the crags above both sides of Ship Island Creek, which drains Ship Island Lake at left and flows down to the Middle Fork Salmon River. Photo by Cody Goldberg For decades, Idaho climbers have imagined what it would be like to...

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| Published 2020 | Author Jim Pace


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Goat Mountain, East Face Idaho, Pioneer Mountains

A Beast the Color of Winter (7 pitches, 800’, IV 5.12b) on the east face of Goat Mountain. Photo by Marc Hanselman After nearly two decades of exploring easy to moderate ridge routes in Idaho’s Pioneer Mountains, in 2012 Drew Daly and I set o...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marc Hanselman


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jebel Um Ejil and Jebel Rum, Many New Routes Jordan, Wadi Rum

Lani Chapko during the first ascent of Makluba on Jebel Um Ejil. Photo by Sam Boyce Lani Chapko and I first visited Wadi Rum in 2023 and were immediately enamored with the climbing. Since then, we have made a number of extended visits and hav...

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| Published 2025 | Author Sam Boyce


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cobb Peak, South Ridge Idaho, Pioneer Mountains

While visiting family in Idaho, I climbed a direct route up the south ridge of Cobb Peak (11,650’) with my dad, Curtis Olson. Beginning at the toe and slightly east of the crest gave access to lower-angle slabs at around 9,400 feet. These provide...

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| Published 2025 | Author Nik Aksamit


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Potato, Northwest Face, Baked and Loaded Arizona, Coyote Domes Wilderness, Mendoza Canyon

While establishing some routes in Mendoza Canyon, about 45 minutes west of Tucson, I took dramatic pictures of the nearly 1,000-foot northwest face of a formation called the Potato (5,676’), which had a couple of old routes on its east face but ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Aaron Davis


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Miter Basin, Six New Routes California, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra

New routes on the Sky Blue Spires: (1) Hawg Ripper (along left skyline), (2) Bofa Spire, (3) The Conclavity, (4) Spankin’ the Marmot (a.k.a. Andrew’s Crack), and (5) Journey to the Center of the Earth. Photo by Daniel Dunn In July, Andrew Tum...

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| Published 2025 | Author Matt Carpenter


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Le Conte, Iridescent Wall, Buns of Steel California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney Area

The Iridescent Wall, located on a spur of Mt. Le Conte, and the approximate lines of (1) Boots on the Moon (2020), (2) Buns of Steel (2025), (3) Space Force (2018), and (4) Iridescent Flow (2020). Photo by Dave Nettle  Two weeks before Brando...

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| Published 2025 | Author Trish Matheney


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Keeler Needle, Stoned Ape Hypothesis California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney Area

Stoned Ape Hypothesis (18 pitches, VI 5.13a A0), seen from the foot of the 2,000-foot east face of Keeler Needle (ca 14,260’). The new line lies mostly to the right of the classic Harding Route. Photo by Myles Moser On July 7, Harry Kinnard a...

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| Published 2025 | Author Myles Moser


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Six New Wall Routes in Two Seasons California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley

The route line for Hummingbird on Sentinel Rock. Photo by Taylor Martin While working for Yosemite Search and Rescue from May to October, Taylor Martin established four long first ascents on four different formations: Hummingbird on Sentinel ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Miles Fullman


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
El Capitan, Cardiac Arrest, Solo First Ascent California, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley

A thin hooking section above Balin’s Roof on Cardiac Arrest. Photo by Tom Evans The white noise of rain on the fly gradually turned into an all-encompassing deluge as the runoff became a waterfall washing onto my portaledge. I didn’t sleep mu...

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| Published 2025 | Author Oliver Tippett