In Memoriam AAJ
Daryl Raymond Miller, 1944–2026

Daryl Miller in 1995 as he and Mark Stasik finished the first winter circumnavigation of Denali and Foraker: 45 days, 350 miles. This was not for work but a private endeavor. Photo Courtesy Family Daryl Raymond Miller, a pioneering Denali mou...

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| Published 2026 | Author Andy Hall


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Meru, West Face, Variations and Historical Notes India, Uttarakhand, Western Garhwal, Gangotri

The west face of Meru above the Kirti Glacier, seen from Thalay Sagar, with the 2006 route marked in red and the 2023 variations in blue. (A) Meru North (6,450m). (B) Meru Central (6,310m). (C) Meru Main (South, 6,672m). Photo courtesy of Meru G...

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| Published 2023 | Author Umesh Zirpe


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Satling Glacier, Brahmasar Attempt and Point Walkers, West Ridge India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri

Point Walkers (left) and the Cathedral seen from the upper Satling Glacier. The east ridge of Point Walkers is marked. Photo by Mirjam Limmer The Satling Glacier, an easterly tributary of the Phatling Glacier, south of Thalay Sagar, was first...

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| Published 2025 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Barmal Glacier: A Forgotten Trek and Unclimbed Summits India, Kashmir

Snowy Peak 10 (ca 6,040m) from the north, above Kalapari Lake. To the left is horizontal-topped D 42. Both appear to be unclimbed. Photo by Zeeshan Mushtaq Over five days in August 2024, Yuvaraj Jothi, Zeeshan Mushtaq, and Vikram Raman follow...

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| Published 2024 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Spang Nala Glacier to Mantang Glacier Traverse and Various Ascents India, Ladakh, Zanskar Range

Shar Mathias above the upper Spang Nala Glacier, having completed a long day linking three peaks around the rim. In the distance is Chomotang (6,065m). Photo by Oak Jones In July, Oak Jones and I, inspired by a report in AAJ 2020, embarked up...

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| Published 2025 | Author Shar Mathias


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
The Alps: New Routes on Forgotten Faces Europe, The Alps

Sandwiched between steep terrain, this leftward traverse on Le Clin d'Oeil gained the upper snowfield on the northwest face of the Dent Blanche. The sun is about to set, and it is time to look for a bivouac at the end of the first day. Photo by ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Everest: Two Major Ski Descents Nepal and Tibet

Rendering of Mt. Everest from the west. (1) The “Super Direct” descent of the Hornbein and Japanese couloirs on the north face in Tibet. (2) The southeast ridge and Western Cwm descent in Nepal. (A) Rongbuk Glacier. (B) South Col. (C) Khumbu Ice...

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| Published 2025 | Author Dougald MacDonald


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chaukhi Range, Second Traverse Georgia, Caucasus, Chaukhi Range

In 2015, Archil Badriashvili soloed the first traverse of the Chaukhi Range, crossing 11 summits above 3,500 meters, with one bivouac. He started with Javakhishvili, looped east and south over a handful of peaks, including Asatiani and Pirosmani, ...

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| Published 2025 | Author The Editors


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asatiani, East Face, Imnaishvili, and Archil Peak, First Ascent Georgia, Caucasus, Chaukhi Range

The east face of Asatiani is on the left, showing the 2024 route (yellow line) and 2016 route (blue line, first ascent of the face. The east face of Archil Peak, with the 2025 route in red, the first ascent of the peak. Photo by Giorgi Tepnadze ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Rusudan Badriashvili


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kvaløya Island, Tromma, En tare for Mikaelsso and Other Routes Norway, Troms

Vetle Sevild leading pitch 12 of En tåre for Mikaelsson. Photo by Martin Andersen The island of Kvaløya lies just outside the Arctic city of Tromsø. Solid granite walls here, such as Baugen and Store Blåmann, have gained international attenti...

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| Published 2025 | Author Sigurd Norderval


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Atomfjella, Extended Ski Tour and Various Ascents Norway, Svalbard

The southeast ridge of Chadwickryggen gave 1,100 meters of rock, mixed, and snow climbing. Photo by Ed Luke In April and May of 2024, Ed Luke and Sasha Doyle (both U.K.) completed a 27-day self-supported journey across central Spitsbergen, in...

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| Published 2024 | Author Maarten van Haeren


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Breiflogtinden and Kråkhammartinden, New Routes Norway, Lofoten

Chris Wright leading on Breiflogtinden’s east face, with Kråkhammartinden (at left) and Marklitinden (at right) behind. Photo by Stian Bruvoll Through a decade of Lofoten winters, I’ve come to appreciate the pattern: Climb something, gape awe...

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| Published 2025 | Author Chris Wright


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Breitinden, North Face, Rainborn Norway, Senja Island

The magnificent north and northeast faces of Breitinden. (1) East Ridge (1970). (2) Knuuttila-Skoglund (2025). (3) Finnjävel (2022). (4) Surf and Turf (2017). (5) Grasshopper Gully (2014). (6) The Ice Princess (2015). (7) Fantasia (2007). (8) Cr...

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| Published 2025 | Author Amelie Kühne


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Yellow Wall, East Face Kyrgyzstan, Gissar Alai, Karavshin, Kara-su Valley

Overhanging terrain at the base of the headwall on the Popova-Prokofiev route. Photo by Marina Popova My husband, Denis Prokofiev, and I traveled to the Karavshin in July. We had planned several long routes in the region, and the line on the ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Marina Popova


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Svarog, North Face, New Route Kyrgyzstan, Gissar Alai, Ashat Gorge

The north face of Svarog in profile, showing the 2025 route. In August 2025, the Russian team of Egor Matveenko (leader), Evgeny Korulin, Artem Pivovarchik, and Tikhon von Stackelberg climbed a new route up the north face of Svarog (5,005m), ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Anna Piunova


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 4,300, Phillar of Experience Kyrgyzstan, Gissar Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su Valley

The red line shows Phillar of Experience on the southeast arête of Peak 4,300m. The blue line is the descent route.  In August, Piotr Kowalczyk, Paweł Zieliński, and I (all from Poland) established a new line on Peak 4,300m, the sharp summit ...

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| Published 2025 | Author Leon Dobrzański


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nura Valley, Climbs and Attempts Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Eastern Zaalaisky Range

Returning along the line of peaks in the Nura basin traversed in 2025; all four peaks were in the 4,600-meter range. Photo by Joe Collinson In July, Maria Koo, Lawrence Luscombe, and I from the U.K., with Orla O’Muiri from Ireland, spent four...

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| Published 2025 | Author Joe Collinson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dioskury Peak, North Face, Direct Route Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Gissar Alai, Ashat Valley

The Ashat Wall, with (A) Dioskury, (B) Argo, (C) Svarog, and (D) Sabakh. The two routes on the left on Dioskury both were climbed in 1990. The central route (1,200m, Russian 6B) was completed in 2025. Photo by Roman Shesternin Dioskury (4,884...

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| Published 2025 | Author Anna Piunova


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chokko Zemleprohodtsev, Northeast Face Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Jiptik Valley

Oliver Noble at the crux mixed traverse on Chokko Zemleprohodtsev. Photo by Christopher Elliott  In May 2025, Oliver Noble, James Young, and I traveled to the Jiptik Valley to attempt the northeast face of Chokko Zemleprohodtsev (“Explorer Pe...

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| Published 2025 | Author Christopher Elliott


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Djangart Range, Four Ascents Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Central Kokshaal-Too

Gama Peak and the line climbed in 2025, finishing on the northwest ridge. The peak to the left is Letaveta. Photo by Imanol Muro Between July 27 and August 21, fellow Basque climber Mikel Txintxurreta and I, both 27, visited the Djangart Rang...

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| Published 2025 | Author Imanol Muro