Two friends and I, David Baumann (32), were climbing in Hyalite Canyon over a weekend. I followed some WI3/4 climbs and led a WI3 without incident.

On Sunday, February 5, I decided to lead The Fat One (WI3) on the Unnamed Wall since the ice looked plastic on the route. I chose the rightmost line, because it had plenty of rests and was not as steep. My intention was to put up a top-rope and climb the steeper lines on the left.

I started climbing and everything was going well. I found a good rest for my feet and had a solid tool placement just above at hip height with my left and was placing my first screw at about hip height with my right. Either a foot slipped or a tool popped—I fell with both ice tools and the ice screw. I snagged my right crampon on some low-angle ice and felt a sharp pain before landing in deep powder snow.

I ended up with a large blood blister on my left big toe and a cleanly fractured talus bone in my right foot, with several chips from my navicular bone. Several locaIs assisted in getting me off of the mountain. I was treated initially at an urgent-care facility in Bozeman and was then referred to a specialist. I am very lucky that nothing worse happened.

ANALYSIS

The accident happened so fast, but I must have pulled up on my left tool when I slipped, and in the end both of them popped. This was my third season ice climbing, and I was beginning to lead. I thought this route was well within my ability if I climbed carefully and took my time. I think I need more practice placing ice screws and maintaining a stable stance. (Source: David Baumann.)