Mt. Goode, Tiger Lily
California, Sierra Nevada, Eastern Sierra
On the north aspect of Mt. Goode (13,085’), a beautiful peak near Bishop Pass, is a narrow gray panel, orange-streaked and mottled yellow, just to the right of the classic North Buttress route. A crack runs up the center of this panel, visible from afar with the naked eye.
On July 30, Crystal Dunbar and I started from the toe of an initial buttress on clean cracks; this pitch could be bypassed via a 4th-class ramp to the left (east). We intersected and then followed the ramp for a second pitch to reach the base of the colored panel. As far as we know, none of these pitches had been climbed.
Many micronuts and occasional cams protected the seam running up the panel until a point where the crack blanks out for a body length or two. Here, one birdbeak was placed for protection and subsequently removed. Above this crux, the crack opens up a bit and the position is excellent. From a large ledge, we climbed left and up to finish on superb golden capstone to complete Tiger Lily (ca 700’, 6 pitches, III 5.11-).
The six pitches broke down as 5.9, 4th class, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.10, 5.10. The leader would be wise to carry a nut tool to clean out the thin nut placements in the sometimes scaly rock. I didn't have one, so I used a beak.
—Cole Taylor