Kings River North Fork, Three Domes

California, Sierra Nevada, Western Sierra
Author: Dave Nettle. Climb Year: 2024. Publication Year: 2025.

The many granite domes surrounding Courtright Reservoir have long been known for excellent rock and challenging friction and edging routes in a spectacular setting. Just east of this easily accessed area, if one is willing to engage in a longer and more complicated approach (about four hours off-trail), are several more domes lining the North Fork of the Kings River. During the summer of 2023 and 2024, I made two trips into this area with Brandon Thau—who had previously established a couple of unreported routes—and a few other friends, and completed several new lines on unclimbed features, all listed here.

First, one of Brandon’s unreported routes: In July 2017, Brandon and Daniel Jeffcoach established Cabinland (6 pitches, 5.11-) on Cabinland Dome (7,965’). They reported signs of another ascent on the dome but could find no information about it.

In mid-August 2023, Brandon, Todd Offenbacher, and I climbed two more routes: Squatters Right (7 pitches, 5.8), also on Cabinland Dome; and Dry Lube (4 pitches, 5.11), on a formation we named Dry Lube Dome (8,039’).

On a second trip to the area, in late August and early September 2024, Brandon, Todd Burks, and I added a second line to Dry Lube Dome, named Jiffy Lube (6 pitches, 5.10). We also climbed a short line we called Without a Doubt (4 pitches, 5.10-) on Distant Dome (8,200’)—this was our name, but the dome had a cairn at the top and the summit was probably reached by an easy scramble up the back side.

—Dave Nettle