Kings River North Fork, Three Domes
California, Sierra Nevada, Western Sierra
The many granite domes surrounding Courtright Reservoir have long been known for excellent rock and challenging friction and edging routes in a spectacular setting. Just east of this easily accessed area, if one is willing to engage in a longer and more complicated approach (about four hours off-trail), are several more domes lining the North Fork of the Kings River. During the summer of 2023 and 2024, I made two trips into this area with Brandon Thau—who had previously established a couple of unreported routes—and a few other friends, and completed several new lines on unclimbed features, all listed here.
First, one of Brandon’s unreported routes: In July 2017, Brandon and Daniel Jeffcoach established Cabinland (6 pitches, 5.11-) on Cabinland Dome (7,965’). They reported signs of another ascent on the dome but could find no information about it.
In mid-August 2023, Brandon, Todd Offenbacher, and I climbed two more routes: Squatters Right (7 pitches, 5.8), also on Cabinland Dome; and Dry Lube (4 pitches, 5.11), on a formation we named Dry Lube Dome (8,039’).
On a second trip to the area, in late August and early September 2024, Brandon, Todd Burks, and I added a second line to Dry Lube Dome, named Jiffy Lube (6 pitches, 5.10). We also climbed a short line we called Without a Doubt (4 pitches, 5.10-) on Distant Dome (8,200’)—this was our name, but the dome had a cairn at the top and the summit was probably reached by an easy scramble up the back side.
—Dave Nettle