On June 7, Jessi (30) and Tyler (33) were on their way to five days of rock climbing in the Enchantment Lakes area. First, they had to cross Aasgard (a.k.a. Colchuck) Pass (7,841 feet). Jessi wrote to ANAC: It was early season and there would st...
The Northeast Couloir of Colchuck Peak rises through the center of the face. Four climbers were carried to the bottom of the couloir in an avalanche triggered when they were in the vicinity of the yellow circle in February 2023. Three perished. ...
Alden Pellett mistakenly attached his rappel device to the extra-long tail in his figure 8 knot (re-creation in the photo). The result was a 100-foot sliding fall. Photo: Pete Takeda On September 8, Alden Pellett (61) was bolting a new route ...
Photo-topo of Todo lo que se comparte (5.11 A0). Photo: Flavie Cardinal.Photo-topo of Todo lo que se comparte (5.11 A0). Photo: Flavie Cardinal.Photo-topo of Todo lo que se comparte (5.11 A0). Photo: Flavie Cardinal.Flavie CardinalMy interest in A...
After a reconnaissance in February 2023, Diego Diaz Aguilera (Chile), Angelo Contessi (Italy), and I returned to Cochamó in 2024 to begin a project in the heart of the valley. Our plan was to establish a new route up the northwest face of Cerro Tr...
The line of Odissea on the south face of Cerro Tronco. Photo: Gonzalo Robert. In October, Chileans Cristóbal Cament, Nicolás Gutiérrez, and Alexis Rojas climbed the huge, steep south face of Cerro Tronco (5,567m, -33.1796, -70.0652). The peak...
In March 2020, Nicole Siña, Paolo Alarcón, Sergio Aspe, and I, all with the Club Andino Leones de Montaña, made the first ascent of Cerro Mono Negro (4,826m, -32.96514, -70.04194) in Chile’s Parque Andino Juncal, about 35km south of Aconcagua. I h...
In March 2024, Federico Caballero, representing the Club Andino Universitario, and I (from the Club Andino Leones de Montaña) opened a new route up the east ridge of Cerro De la Iglesia (4,297m, -32.80097, -70.09844), on the border between Chile a...
Until now, Colombia’s highest mountain was thought to be Pico Cristóbal Colón, surveyed in 1939 at 5,775m. A neighboring peak, Pico Simón Bolívar, 650m to the west, was surveyed at 5,773m and was considered the second-tallest peak in the country. ...
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is considered the Heart of the World in indigenous cosmogony and is among the highest coastal ranges in the world. On December 11, 2024, Alexander Chávez, Brian Kalet, Salomón Torres, and I embarked on an adventure...
Approaching the northeast face of Pico Cristóbal Colón. The new route climbed in 2023 ascended the most prominent couloir in the face to the right of the climbers, then continued up the easier northwest face to the summit. Photo: Alex Torres. ...
Looking back to Mt. Strachan from the final skin up Mt. Dechen on day three of the Hooker Range traverse. Photo by Anna Keeling. Ruari Macfarlane is visionary when it comes to unclimbed and unskied lines in New Zealand. Our idea for a ski tr...
Sam Smoothy peers down Aoraki/Mt. Cook’s north face during one of 2024’s ski descents. Photo by Will Rowntree. Warm, settled weather in the early summer of 2024 led to a steady stream of activity in the ranges of the lower South Island, with ...
Gangga I and the route of first ascent on the upper west face and ridge. Photo by Xueer Yu. During the summer of 2024, Haoyu Wen and her various climbing partners made the first ascents of six peaks in the northern Shaluli Shan (some of them ...
The 2023 route up the west face of Peak 5,560m (GPS) in the northwestern Chola Shan. The snow slopes below the face were reached by climbing to a saddle off the bottom of the picture from the northeast (left). Photo by Xueer Yu. In August 202...
(A) Nobgyar North, (B) Nobgyar, and (C) Zhuqing from the northwest, showing the 2024 ascent (left) and the descent of the rock buttress directly below Zhuqing, along with the first three bivouacs. Photo by Zhan Fang. The highest of a cluster ...
In 2024, my company, Feeding the Rat Expeditions, obtained the first permits to visit the Chinese side of K2 since 2011. However, in October, immediately before our planned departure, the permits were unexpectedly suspended, for reasons only descr...
Paradise Lake with (A) Peak 4,539m, climbed in 2024, (B) Peak 4,359m, (C) Peak 4,171m, and (D) Peak 3,700m showing the line of Dry Martini, also climbed in 2024. Photo by Expedition. Deng Tao, Li Bo, and Zhang Xinyi arrived at Paradise (a.k.a...
On the first ascent of Dry Martini, looking east across Paradise Lake toward unclimbed rock. Photo by Zhen Wang. As the proverb goes, you won’t know how big China is until you arrive in Xinjiang. The long journey to Paradise Lake proves this ...
Dennie Vester (NZ) on the sixth pitch of Fun Dee (5.12a), on the Dream Wall in Ao Nang, Thailand. Photo by Dakota Walz. For most climbers, the town of Ao Nang is simply a launchpad to the famous Tonsai and Railay bays. However, Ao Nang has i...