On May 31, Peter Haeussler and I, both from Anchorage, reached the summit of Broken Tooth (9,050’) via a major variation to the west ridge route (Bauman-Lewis, AAJ 1988). [Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and Jay Rowe first completed the lower part o...
After the first ascent of the east face of the Mooses Tooth in 1982, Jim Bridwell wrote of his return to base camp: “The cards were played and we had drawn aces. Finally I collapsed into prone paralysis. Just before unconsciousness, the memorable ...
Mark Allen and I had an excellent and fruitful expedition into the Central Alaska Range in May, making the probable second ascent of Mt. Laurens (10,042’) via a new route on its northeast buttress (4,650’, V AI4 M7 A1).Mt. Laurens is a prominent p...
In April, two Japanese climbers, Daizo Watanabe and Tani Takeshi, reported a possible new route on the south face of Mt. Frances, right above the Kahiltna base camp. Their route climbs one of several obvious, large gullies on the south aspect of t...
The eastern aspect of Pico Milluni (5,500m) features rather nice rock, and the following routes, all of which end on one of Milluni's summits, are likely new.In May my wife, Sal, and I climbed the main summit by the central, northeast-facing buttr...
Jared Vilhauer and I spent all day skiing up and down the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier and looking for an inspiring, safe line to give our all. Our original objective was sporting a new look—its summit snow slopes had cracked open to reveal a han...
During April 5-7, Jess Roskelley, Kris Szilas, and I established a new line on the east face of the Citadel (8,250’) above the Shadows Glacier. We encountered sparse protection, vertical rotten snow, quality ice, and mixed and aid climbing on poor...
In 2013 we held 31 events, ranging from climbing video nights and first-aid classes to full-on banquets. The commitment of numerous volunteers and local business partners made this record year possible. Last year the section responded to the rappe...
The section’s major climbing trip was held over Columbus Day weekend. With help from the Southern Appalachian and Mid Atlantic sections, we organized a joint meet at Seneca Rocks. Despite uncooperative weather, members ascended various Seneca clas...
The year 2013 will stand out for a memorable 34th Annual Black Tie Dinner. Fifty years earlier, Americans, for the first time, stood on top of Mt. Everest. Of all of the exploits of that historic expedition, none has stood the test of time like th...
Our section has had a great introduction since New York split into Upstate and Metro New York sections last year. Over the Columbus Day weekend, we hosted a very successful BBQ for 20-plus members and other climbers at the High Peaks Cyclery Guide...
In February our section helped International Mountain Equipment sponsor the 20th annual Mt. Washington Valley Ice Festival in North Conway, New Hampshire. It was an honor to be chosen as the beneficiary of the Friday-night festivities, and we were...
The Michigan Ice Fest continues to be the largest gathering of Midwest climbers and our section’s biggest event, with 434 participants descending upon Munising for the best ice conditions we have seen in decades. Climbers from 10 states and two co...
Two activities stood out last year in the extremely engaged section on Colorado’s Front Range. We formed a group called the Climbing Posse that met after work to climb. The dates were announced in our monthly e-mail, and each meeting was organized...
Our first major event this year was in support of theWestern Colorado Climbers Coalition’s (WCCC) annual fund-raiser in April. The proceeds will go to possible land purchases in Unaweep Canyon, south of Grand Junction. Activities included a boulde...
Our section completed many events in 2013, focused on developing the Idaho climbing community. Among these, Jim Donini spoke at two dinners, one in Boise and the other in Sun Valley, providing stories of adventure that inspired everyone in attenda...
In addition to rock climbing outings in the Superstition Mountains, east of Phoenix, and the McDowell Mountains of Scottsdale, the Arizona Section added a canyoneering event to its list of activities. Canyoneering is very popular in the Southwest ...
We had four main events in 2013: a climbing/restoration weekend in Joshua Tree in March; a stewardship day at the third annual Idyllwild Climbers Festival in May; helping with the work party and a fund-raiser for the section’s Live Your Dream gran...
Our “Climb-munity” gatherings continued to be popular and well attended throughout the year. These included ice climbing in Cold Stream Canyon near Truckee, rock climbing at Pinnacles National Park, a June weekend on Donner Summit, and our much-lo...
The Alaska Section partnered with the Hatcher Pass Mountaineering Huts Group to support motorized vehicle–boundary education and incident reporting around the Snowbird Hut. This involved posting boundary signs, handing out brochures with motorized...