Matteo Della Bordella on the 60m traverse that was the key to climbing the west face of Bhagirathi IV. Bhagirathi II is visible behind. Despite the many attempts to climb the west face of Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), it was lack of good informatio...
On February 13, I was descending Mt. Hood with my friend Miha Šumi, 35, when he lost his footing and fell several hundred feet, sustaining injuries that ended his life. Miha and I were part of a group of four climbers from the Portland area. We m...
Tiphaine Duperier descending the southeast ridge of Spantik, looking east southeast over the Basin Glacier to peaks on the northern side of the Chogolungma Glacier. Photo by Boris Langenstein As with every trip, our month and a half of holida...
Heading down the upper section of the northeast face of Gasherbrum VII. Circled is Francesco Cassardo, who is still on the ascent. Photo by Cala Cimenti After my partial ski descent of Nanga Parbat in early July (see story here), I traveled t...
Thalo Zom from the west-northwest. Photo by Andrea Bollati The Mountain Wilderness organization strives not only to preserve the natural environment of the world's mountains and deserts, but also to maintain the quality of the experience for ...
Gasherbrum II from the south showing the line of Honeymoon (1,935 meters of climbing above the bergschrund). The normal route up the peak follows the spur coming directly toward the camera, traverses right under the rocky summit pyramid, and cli...
Nik Berry on the "Changing Chimneys" of pitch four on the American Way on Pik Slesova. Photo by Eric Bissell Pik Slesova (4,240m, a.k.a. Russian Tower) is an El Cap–size granite tower in the Ak-su Valley. Its southern aspect is home to one of...
Pik 4,240m West seen from Hidden Big Peak (Pik 4,485m), with Pik Lenin (7,134m) in the background. Photo: Mark Aitken The Zaalaysky Range, which includes Peak Lenin (7,134m), forms a border between Kyrgyzstan in the north and Tajikistan to th...
Peak 6,410m from the west-southwest. The two Chinese attempting the first ascent appear to have fallen from the horizontal rocky section of ridge facing the camera, before the final summit pyramid. Photo by: Pakistan Army Aviation High Altitude...
View southeast from the summit of Okheree Sar, over the upper Shim Dur Glacier, to Shim Dur Sar and other unclimbed peaks of the Insgaiti Mountains. Photo by Justyna Markiewicz The Shim Dur (a.k.a. Shahim-i-Dur) Valley lies in the little-know...
Karsten Delap on the black ice of Frozen Diesel (HWI 6+). Photo by Austin Schmitz Karsten Delap and I spent the first two weeks of January 2019 ice climbing in the Indian Himalaya, just outside the village of Kaza in the Spiti Valley. The Sp...
Nico Gutiérrez on the delicate slab climbing of pitch five (5.10d) on Mango Trango, Base Camp Slabs, Trango Base Camp. Photo by Diego Saez Chileans Nico Gutiérrez, Sebastián Rojas, Diego Saez, and Diego Señoret spent July at Trango Base C...
Making full use of the remaining daylight, I traversed 40 meters to the left to a small snow-covered platform below the Exit Cracks. I looked up and was staggered to see not a cascade of ice but a large, completely vertical groove of polished rock...
The 800-meter route on the west face of Pic Mechta (Dream Peak, 2,590m). Photo: Evgeny Glazunov The South Muysky Ridge (also spelled Muiski) is a range of granite peaks in the Bauntovsky region of Buryatia. The highest point, Muysky Giant...
The northeast face of Zvezdniy. (1) Kosinusoyda (2015, 5B). (2) Temereva (2013, 6A). (3) Hvostenko (2001, 6A). (4) Balezin (1997, 5B). (5) Balezin (2001, 5B). (6) Zhigalov (2019, 6A). Photo by: Alexander Zhigalov In early December 2015, Nico...
Alexander Zaidler (July 15, 1931 - August 8, 2018) was an honorary member of the UIAA Youth Commission, and in August 2019, a team of alpine veterans led by Alexander Turtukov named a previously unclimbed rocky summit of 3,772m in the Central Cauc...
The southwest face of Dragon Tooth and the nine existing routes. Water Route (2019) is in yellow. Nearly all are in the Russian 5B category. Photo by Alexander Zhigalov There are now nine routes on the broad southwest face of Dragon Tooth (2,...
“True Peak 5,822m” (unclimbed) seen from high on the north lateral moraine of the South Lachama Glacier. Photo by Mike Fletcher Following a suggestion from Julian Freeman-Attwood, Drew Cook, Lorna Earl, Mike Fletcher, Nick King, Stephen Hump...
Moving toward the 6,100m col below the unclimbed north ridge of Drangnag Ri (6,757m, foreground left). In the background is Takargo Ri (6,771m), with part of Chobutse (6,686m) to the right. Photo by Will Rowland During November, a British ex...
In November 1996, Kili Sherpa and I climbed a line on the far left side of the west face of Parchamo (6,273m) to reach the shoulder on the north ridge at around 5,950m. From our camp at approximately 5,485m on the Drolambo (Drolambau) Glacier, we ...