Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche Canada, Alberta, Mt. Athabasca

At around 10:30 a.m. on September 19, two climbers triggered an avalanche on the Silverhorn route. The weather was clear, with light winds, and the temperature was near 0° Celsius. The leader described the snow as being “Styrofoam-like.” They had ...

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| Published 2018


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Loss of Control and Pendulum Canada, British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine

On July 29 a climber was descending the northeast ridge of Assiniboine and was rappelling diagonally to reach a ledge when the climber slipped and swung back into the fall line, impacting a protruding rock. The resulting injury prevented the party...

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| Published 2018


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche – Poor Position, Weather Canada, British Columbia, Mt. Robson Provincial Park, Whitehorn Mountain

IN THE EARLY hours of April 23, a party of two climbers from Europe left their high camp, located in the northeast bowl of Whitehorn Mountain (3,399 meters), to attempt the northeast face of the mountain. This is not believed to be an established ...

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| Published 2018


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Exhaustion, Climbing Alone Canada, Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Mt. Logan

In the early morning of June 1, Parks Canada was notified that a solo climber was requesting assistance high on Mt. Logan. The climber had summited the mountain and was located at Prospector’s Col, at approximately 5,500 meters. The climber was ex...

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| Published 2018


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Beletskiy, Southeast Glacier and Face Tajikistan, Pamir

After an acclimatization ascent of Kyzyl Alai East in the Pamir Alai (see report here), my team headed for Karakol Lake and the Pamir in July. From the M41 (the Sary Tash to Karakol Lake road) in the Markansu Valley, we walked west up the Uysu Val...

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| Published 2019 | Author Michal Kleslo


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kindik Valley, Pik Kindik, Northwest Rib; Pik 4,760m, North Flank. Kyzyl Alai Valley, Kyzyl Alai East, North Face Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai

In June a team led by Michal Kleslo climbed two peaks east of Kindik Pass in the Central Alai. Jakub Moravik and Michal Sranc climbed the steep, rocky northwest rib of Pik Kindik (4,927m, 39.789907°N, 72.709461°E), which in June was mostly snow an...

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| Published 2019 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Off-Route, Inadequate Protection Wyoming, Vedauwoo, Nautilus

It always starts out like a casual day. Perfect weather, great friends, no need to push yourself. The next thing you know you’re sitting on your couch in a cast and writing an accident report for ANAC.I work for the American Alpine Club, and we we...

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| Published 2018 | Author Carol Kotchek


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Unable to Retrieve Rappel Rope Wyoming, Wind River Range, Cirque of the Towers, Wolf's Head Peak

At approximately midnight on September 1, Sublette County Sheriff’s Office dispatch received a call from a couple of climbers (male and female) who were stranded on the northwest face of Wolf’s Head, not far below the summit. Their rappel rope had...

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| Published 2018 | Author Sublette County Sheriff's Office


Accident Reports ANAM
Benighted – Inexperience Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

On August 2, at approximately 8:25 p.m., rangers were notified that a party was uninjured but lost on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand Teton and needed help. Cell phone reception was poor, but a ranger was able to communicate with the party via tex...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Device Installed Incorrectly Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Cascade Canyon, Storm Point

At approximately 10:30 p.m. on July 22, Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received a call from a hiker who stated he was hiking east on the Cascade Canyon Trail when he heard calls for help and saw lights flashing on the cliffs above the trail. Ra...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall In Descent Gully Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak

At approximately 3:30 p.m. on June 28, an experienced climber (male, age 68) was struck by a rolling rock while scrambling down a descent gully after a climb of the Open Book (5.9+), a popular multi-pitch route above Garnet Canyon. The rock hit th...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Fall On Snow – Failure to Control Glissade Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot Mountain

At approximately 7:45 a.m. on June 25, an individual was reported overdue from a solo climb up the east face of Teewinot Mountain. The overdue climber, a 27-year-old male, had posted a video onto social media from the summit around 4:30 the previo...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Off-Route, Inadequate Protection, Darkness Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot Mountain

On June 16, at 11:23 p.m., Teton Interagency Dispatch Center received a call from an uninjured father (33) and son (13) in the vicinity of the southwest couloir of Teewinot, at roughly 11,000 feet. They reported leaving the trailhead that morning ...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall During Descent – Inexperience, Inadequate Gear Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire

On June 12, at about 9:30 p.m., rescue coordinator George Montopoli received a call about an accident in the descent gully (southwest couloir) on Symmetry Spire. The caller informed Montopoli that he and his climbing partner had left the valley at...

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| Published 2018 | Author NPS Search and Rescue Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park, East Bluff, Pedestal Buttress

On March 28 at approximately 3:45 p.m., Savannah Buik, 22, fell while leading Birch Tree Crack, a 5.8 climb on the Pedestal Buttress. A witness said she fell approximately 20 feet from the crux of the climb to the ground, landing on her back on ro...

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| Published 2018 | Author Eyewitness and Published Reports


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Protection Pulled, Inadequate Protection West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Southern Pillar

In the early afternoon of November 4, a male climber (age unknown) was leading the route Climbin’ Punishment (5.8+). The climber fell when he was approximately 75 feet up the route, while negotiating the second of two overhanging steps. His highes...

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| Published 2018 | Author Adam Happensack


Feature Article ANAM
Essentials: Wound Management From Gobies to Serious Lacerations

THOUGH OFTEN not reported due to their relatively minor nature, the most common injury for climbing and other outdoor pursuits is wounds such as abrasions, lacerations, and, to a lesser extent, puncture wounds. Such injuries may come from leader f...

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| Published 2018 | Author R. Bryan Simon


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Loose Rock, Inadequate Protection West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Church Rocks

On October 7, Adam and Amber (both 26) were at a rock formation called Church Rocks, an infrequently climbed area near Seneca Rocks. After completing a route to the top of the formation, the climbers decided to rappel from a different location in ...

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| Published 2018 | Author Adam Happensack


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Broken Hold, Inadequate Protection West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Green Wall

On April 14, Tom H. (44) and Chris C. (35) were climbing at Seneca Rocks for their first outing of the season. It was Tom’s first trip to Seneca. They started with Pleasant Overhangs (5.7) on the Green Wall, and at 7:30 a.m., after scrambling up t...

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| Published 2018 | Author Tom H.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Broken Hold, Inadequate Protection Washington, North Cascades, Concord Tower

Shortly before 10:30 a.m. on August 28, Benjamin G. Antonio (67) was climbing on the north side of Concord Tower, near Washington Pass, when a handhold broke and Antonio fell. He swung about 45 feet and hit the wall feet first. His partner lowered...

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| Published 2018 | Author Chelan County Sheriff's Office