Santa Rosa, West Face, Cordillera Raura. On June 28 Bernard Francou and I climbed for the first time the west face of Santa Rosa (5706 meters, 18,721 feet). The 1650-foot high face, which varied from 50° to 65°, took us five hours to climb. We cro...
El Capitan, El Corazon. On September 7 Max Reichel and I looked for a new free-climbable line on the southwest face of El Capitan. We found it and reached the top on September 14. We used aid on some sections during the first ascent but returned f...
Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, New Route. The expedition was made up of Kim Bover, Ramon Estiu, Jordi Bosch “Barraca,” Xavier Robiró, Carles Figueras, Josep Permañé and Iñaki Garijo. The route was climbed without prior preparation alpine-style by ...
Mount Hayes, Northern Edge of the West Face. Geoff Radford, Andy Reynolds, Kate Bull and Steve Will climbed this 5000-foot-high ridge in March. They were five days on the arête, another on the north ridge to reach the summit and a seventh on the d...
Washington, Southern Olympics. On Saturday morning, November 10th, a routine problem was being conducted by F-102 fighter planes from Paine Air Force Base. Fighter #2, flown by Captain Robert Lucas, was observing #1 from a slightly higher elevatio...
FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAYNew York, ShawangunksWhile descending the Pigeon (Class 4), a woman (31) fell and pulled the climber roped to her into a tree. This resulted in broken ribs, a sprained wrist, and cuts. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisThe easy de...
Raksha Urai Massif, First Attempt. In far western Nepal, a team of 14 Austrians had some difficulty getting through a very deep gorge to their virgin massif of Raksha Urai, which is east of two better-known mountains, Api and Nampa, and west-north...
King Peak, Correction. On page 264 of A.A.J., 1967, it should have been noted that the “first ascent by the entire west ridge” of King Peak was completed on July 5 and 6, 1966. The first-ascent party of Alston Paige, Keith Hart and Elton Thayer re...
Mount Shuksan, Lower Curtis Glacier and Southwest Face. On August 24, John Stull and I completed a route up steep ice in a broad gully on the upper right side of the Lower Curtis Glacier. Easier but dangerous séracs on the right side forced us lef...
Alaska - Hayes Range — On July 24th Don Jensen (21) and I (Dave Roberts, 21) were hiking across the east fork of the Gillam Glacier at an altitude of 6700 feet. It was the thirty-seventh day of our two-man expedition, which was now attempting to r...
Mount Foraker, Winter Attempt. On February 15 Cliff Hudson deposited Hank Noldan, Steve Hackett, Kurt Bittlingmaier, John Samuelson, Wendell Oderkirk, Norm Stadem and me with one month’s supplies at 6500 feet on the Kahiltna glacier near the foot ...
Shivling, North Ridge. Masayuki Fujita, Masayoshi Yamamoto, Isao Kubo, Takayuki Akasu and I as leader visited the Gangotri area to climb Shivling by a new route. Indians had climbed the west ridge in 1974 but no other route had been done on the mo...
Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Attempt. Dave Hesleden and I went to attempt the West Face of Fitz Roy in November and December, 1998. In actual fact it was quite snowy and icy, so we switched to the east side. After one attempt at the Franco-Argenti...
Mount Wood, First Ascent of Mount Craig. The expedition of the Mountaineering Association of Nagano Prefecture consisted of Ryo Shimada, leader; Yoshiharu Hoshino, Tsubasa Tezuka, Kazuo Kasai, Shinei Matsumi, Mitsugu Nakazawa, Hajime Uchida, Masaa...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn July 26, 1985, around 1300, an experienced climber (20) was ascending on rock toward Hind Hut on his way to Mount Assiniboine. A falling rock struck him on...
FALLING SNOWAlaska, Denali National Park, Peak 11,300Around 0500 on May 3, Mountaineering Ranger Karen Hilton and her two volunteers, Carl Oswald and Matthew Smith, left their camp to patrol the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300, located in the West ...
Various Ascents. A number of successful ascents were reported although details are lacking. Japanese led by Kazumasa Shibuya climbed P 21,516 (6558 meters), which lies north of Brammah and the Prul Glacier and south of the Chilung La. From Camp II...
Leo Pargial. A ten-man Indian expedition led by Paritosh Das Gupta climbed Leo Pargial. Base Camp at 14,500 feet was set up on May 14 and Advance Base at 16,200 feet on May 16. Camp I was placed beside the Leo Pargial Glacier at 18,200 feet on May...
The Elusion. This route is unfortunately typical of the newer Yosemite climbs. It begins less than 100 feet left of an existing route, Commissioner Buttress. At the end of each pitch it is possible to traverse off onto easier climbing, and it conn...
FALL INTO CREVASSE-UNABLE TO BE RESCUED QUICKLY BECAUSE OF POSITIONAlaska, Wrangell Mountains, Mount BonaOn May 17, Will Hurst (56), who was climbing with two guides and another client, fell through a snow bridge. At the time, they were on snowsho...