Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Leo Pargial

Publication Year: 1983.

Leo Pargial. A ten-man Indian expedition led by Paritosh Das Gupta climbed Leo Pargial. Base Camp at 14,500 feet was set up on May 14 and Advance Base at 16,200 feet on May 16. Camp I was placed beside the Leo Pargial Glacier at 18,200 feet on May 18. They switched from the south face to the direct route via the northwest ridge. Camp II at 19,500 feet was higher than originally planned and eliminated the need for Camp III. On May 24 Jadu Gopal Acharya, Badal Datta, Utpalendu Das and Sherpas Marma and Sona set out from Camp II. The last 650 feet were steep and the gradient worsened as they went up. After a struggle of 10½ hours, they were on the summit (6791 meters, 22,280 feet). Another Indian expedition led by Usha Bhide Sathe also ascended the mountain later in the year.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club