Combats pour I’Eiger by Toni Hiebeier. Paris, B. Arthaud, 1965. Paperback. 307 pages, 9 photographs. Translated from the original German edition (Frankfurt; Wilhelm Limpert) by Monique Bittebierre. 27 francs.This book forms a trilogy with its pred...
Knud Rasmussen Land, first ascents. From July 22 to August 16 a five-man British team of Bob Dawson, John and Mark Doplock, Jon Lancaster, and Steve Long visited Knud Rasmussen Land, one of the least frequented regions of East Greenland, situated ...
Attempt on Tirich Mir from the South. The Carinthian Hindu Kush Expedition was made up of Hans Thomaser, leader, Fritz Samonigg, Peter Brabeck, and Gerhard Neuwirth. They went to the northern part of the Dir Gol. In 1966 the southern part was expl...
Nevado Chugllaraju, British Route to summit ridge. On June 24 John Pearson and I climbed a new route on the west face of Nevado Chugllaraju (5,575m), southwest of Nevado Ulta and between it and Nevado Cancaraca. A complex approach led to the route...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer HMC members climbed at home and abroad. At least six of us were in Yosemite at some point, and some even managed to tear themselves away from the boulders and the delightful atmosphere in Camp 4 long enough...
Italian Carlo Stratta and Dawa Lama Sherpa made two new routes (one to the summit) on the south-southwest face of Chulu West on October 7 and 8. They left Base Camp at 4300 meters at 10:30 P.M. and by the light of headlamps climbed a 450-meter-hig...
Chacraraju Oeste, Bouchard-Meunier (with variations) to summit ridge, and Alpamayo, Chilean variation. On a July 19 acclimatization climb, Felipe González Donoso, Felipe González Diaz, and I made a Chilean variation (MD 90°) to the 1988 Cacha-Pare...
A.A.C., Siena Nevada Section. The year 1979 was an active one for our section’s 196 members. Sixteen section-sponsored events were held, including three traditional section meetings, seven organizational meetings, three outings, one service projec...
Kak Bhusand, Rajrambha. Gangotri III. All three of these peaks were climbed by members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Kak Bhusand (19,210 feet) was climbed on May 14 by J.S. Negi, leader, Nafe Singh, Mingur and Ang Chettar, a first ascent. Thi...
San Valentín. On December 28, fourteen people climbed San Valentin (given both as 4058 and 3876 meters, 13,314 and 12,716 feet). The group was organized by Frenchman Philippe Moderé, who had previously climbed the mountain with his wife Nicole in ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount BlumOn September 6, 1987, John Petroske (31) was leading out a pitch nine of a new route on the west face of the North Ridge of Mount Blum. The North Ridge requires a long one-day approach in a very remote area of the...
Solo Ascents. I climbed Cayambe on June 13, 1972, Cotopaxi on the 18th and Chimborazo on the 20th, all solo.Michael Kelsey, Unaffiliated
Cerro Cristal. Ugo and Benigno Balatti, Giuseppe Alippi and I had hoped to climb Cerro Campana, which rises north of the Glaciar Moyano, but the weather in late 1991 made this impossible. As a consolation, on January 3 we climbed Cerro Cristal (22...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITIONNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineDuring the afternoon of March 30, two climbers (ages unknown) emerged from North Gully onto the more open slopes above the gully. After simul- climbing the gully’s midsectio...
Nanga Parbat. After a four-day approach, on June 20 Italians Sergio Martini, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and Carlo Claus got to Base Camp at 4200 meters at the foot of the Diamir Face. Despite bad weather, they established Camps I and II at 4...
Washington—Cascades, Snoqualmie Pass: Keith Jacobson (17), Larry Schinke (17), and Eddie Olmquist (17) without registering or checking on weather conditions started on an overnight ski-mountaineering trip from Snoqualmie Pass Summit to Snow Lake o...
Leopold’s Needle, Gila Wilderness Area. Driving west into a setting sun, shortly before Glenwood, Jon Butler and I saw a wild tower. We spent an entire evening driving back and forth on Forest Service roads, trying to figure the best approach to t...
Climbing Regulations in Argentine National Parks. While climbing in Argentina last winter I found out the new rules for climbing in the national parks; climbers would do well to comply with these and get permits in Buenos Aires before leaving for ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, POSSIBLE AVALANCHE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn April 20, 1991, Joe Massari (45) was attempting Kiener’s Route on Longs Peak. Conditions were quite adverse, with...
Everest Attempt by a New Route. Canadian Barry Blanchard and I attempted a new route on the north side of Everest without fixed rope, camps or supple-mentary oxygen. We followed the spur between the two large couloirs that go up into the pinnacles...