COVID-19 appeared to settle down during November, and Takuya Mitoro and I decided to go climbing overseas. It would be our first trip for at least two years. With the summer season in the Karakoram already passed, we opted to try some winter ascen...
On October 20, I reached the summit of the Giants Foot (also known as First Wall) in East Rosebud Canyon via the previously unclimbed northwest face. I climbed the route alone over 12 days of effort (climbing and shuttling gear). I used siege ta...
Snyelmn Pillar seen from the outlet of Sonielem Lake. Peak Y is in the background. Photo by Spencer Gray In early September, Damian Mast and I hiked to a north-facing pillar above the south shore of Sonielem Lake in the Mission Mountains Tri...
In late July, Kate Mylan and I climbed the high-quality fall line of the east face of the east subsummit (~8,400’) of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness. Castor Sally, a route I climbed with Alex Marine in 2020, is to the right of this new...
On May 10, shortly after their expedition to Yawash Sar II (see report here), Jedrzej Baranowksi and Andrzej Bargiel (Poland) reached the summit of Laila Peak (6,096m, 35°35'29.83"N, 76°24'38.70"E). Due to difficult conditions on the last section ...
In the spring, a Polish expedition traveled to far northern Pakistan to attempt unclimbed Yawash Sar II (6,176m), which had been attempted by Krzysztof Wielicki, solo, in the summer of 2019. The team trekked from Shimshal via Boesam Pass to a base...
James Price near the top of the south ridge of Darmyani with the Passu Glacier below. The Batura Wall rises more than 4,500m from the Hunza Valley to the south and stretches around 40km without ever dropping below 6,000m. I first set eyes on ...
Following acclimatization with climbs and ski descents in the southern Rakaposhi Range and Eastern Hindu Raj (see report here), Boris Langenstein, Aurélia Lanoé, Guillaume Pierrel, and I transferred to Skardu, trekked up the Baltoro Glacier, and...
The 2021 ascents on Garmush Zom I (left) and II. The snowy summit on the far left is Garmush Zom North. After four canceled flights and a week in the hot atmosphere of Islamabad, waiting for our skis to arrive, Boris Langenstein, Aurelia Lano...
In 2020, on satellite images, I spotted the cool looking west face of Storskiva (848m) on the island of Moskenesøya, in the far west of Lofoten. It seemed very hard to reach due to steep sea cliffs guarding the approach on both sides. I was able t...
The French Groupe Militaire d’Haute Montagne (GMHM) once again sent a team of mountain soldiers to Queen Maud Land for exploratory ascents during November and December. Jacques-Olivier Chevallier, Didier Jourdain, Sebastian Moatti, and Jordi Nogeu...
Part of the west face of Illampu (6,368m), showing (1) Nada Mañana, (2) Mental Ward, and (3) Koroska Smer. Other routes not shown. At around 8 a.m. on July 30, Brad Ward (no relation) and I stood together on the summit of Illampu (6,368m), ha...
On August 25, Ethan Berkeland, Matt Capp, Brons Gerrish, and I flew with TEMSCO to the Hotel Glacier to attempt a new route on a satellite peak of Nenana Mountain (7,881’). Acknowledging that our weather window was tight and having landed in ove...
From May 8–12, Gabriel Messercola, Robert Paulsen, Freddy Romero, and I attempted to climb through the icefalls at the head of the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier in an effort to climb the 1954 Thayer Route on Denali’s South Buttress. [Editor’s No...
Photo by Will Saunders Golden eagle feathers are sacred to many and hold a place of prominence on a warbonnet. They carry strong medicine and guide the wearer toward courage, strength, and hope. In 2012, I witnessed two golden eagles dance to...
The unclimbed northwest ridge of Dhaulagiri is at least 6km in length and around 4,000m high. Although the average angle is not steep and there are long stretches of straightforward snow slopes, the ridge starts with a steep 500m rock buttress. It...
Photo by Roger Nix From December 21 to 23, John Kelley (USA) made the second overall and first winter ascent of Rokapi (a.k.a. Kap Chuli, 6,468m, 29°50’52.60”N, 81°2’19.20”E) in the Api Himal. Climbing alone, Kelley established base camp on N...
Mariyang (6,528m, 29°41’35.29”N, 82°53’13.89”E) is an impressive but little-known summit in the Kanti Himal, on the Nepal-Tibet border west of Danphe Shail (6,103m). It was added to the official permitted list in 2014 and until 2021 had no known a...
When I met Gunner Madsen in March 2021, he had only been climbing in the gym for 11 months, but was stoked to begin trad climbing. I decided to mentor Gunner with the intent of getting him ready for a route on the Elephants Perch in the Sawtooths ...
On September 8 and 9, Ky Hart and I climbed a new route on an unnamed spire in the Sawtooth Mountains. The north-facing wall of the spire rises above the cirque that drains the north face of Decker Peak, a few miles south of Redfish Lake and the E...