On August 7, Taylor Harmon and I left the St. Lawrence Basin ranger station on the east side of the Winds with the intention of establishing a few new routes in the Wolverine Cirque. This area was first visited in August 1988 by Fred Beckey and Ja...
Ruari Macfarlane during the first wintertime Torres-Tasman traverse. Photo by Gavin Lang The New Zealand summer of 2019–’20 was typified by stable spells of warm, dry weather interspersed between significant storm fronts, the worst of which h...
In a career spanning decades, Doug Scott was recognized worldwide as one of the greatest mountaineers of the postwar era. The statistics speak for themselves: over 40 expeditions to Central Asia, countless first ascents all round the world, the fi...
Mark Powell (left) and Jerry Gallwas on the summit of Totem Pole, Arizona, after the first ascent. Marion “Mark” Lyle Powell, was born in Selma, Califor- nia. His family moved frequently, and when Mark was 15 years old, his parents divorced ...
Energetic, creative, adventurous, and highly unorthodox, Scotsman Hamish MacInnes was among the most influential British climbers of the 1960s and ’70s, and he continued to be an important rescue leader and innovator for many years. Hamish started...
Jock Glidden passed away on July 29, at his home in Ogden, Utah, after the balance of pains outweighed the sum of pleasures, and he determined there was no longer any purpose in continuing the struggle against Parkinson’s disease. Jock was born a...
On October 29, Evelio Echevarría left this world peacefully in his bed, with his family in Colorado alongside. An authority on the Andes and a reference for many generations of climbers in Latin America, he was an intelligent and restless writer,...
Joe Brown on the Craigh Dhu Wall at Tremadog, Wales, in 1967. Photo by John Cleare Joe Brown seemed to me a kind of Renaissance master, his medium blank sheets of rock and ice, the lines he drew on them elegant and clever, his tombstone grin...
(A) Chashkin I from the south with (1) the 2020 ascent route, and (2) the descent route. (B) Unclimbed rock tooth (5,820m). The snow couloir immediately to the right (the Johnny Danger Couloir) was climbed as far as the col below the southeast r...
After returning home from my August expedition to the Chashkin Group (see report here), I organized another trip to Shimshal from November 7 to December 4. David Langanke, my companion from Germany, and I reached Shimshal village on November 10 an...
The aim of our small Belgian expedition was to make the first winter ascent of Lukpe Lawo Brakk, the highest of the Snow Lake peaks. [Lukpe Lawo Brakk (6,593m) was climbed, possibly for the first time, in 1989 by a British expedition via the west ...
In 2000, the Corean Alpine Club sponsored six climbers to make the first ascent of Shingu Charpa (a.k.a. Great Tower, ca 5,900m; various heights have been reported, from 5,600m to over 6,000m). The team established base camp on July 7 in the Nangm...
In 2016, Frenchman Mathieu Maynadier visited the Lachit Valley, and during the trek out he saw several relatively accessible big walls in the Tagas Valley. (This is the next valley west of the Lachit, running north-northeast from the village of Ta...
In spring 2019, inspired by a photo taken two years earlier by our friend Marcello Sanguineti (AAJ 2018), Maurizio Giordani asked me to join him, Massimo Faletti, and David Hall on an expedition to the Kondus Valley. Our goal was to climb some of ...
Ten years ago, I ventured out on my first winter climbing trip to the Darran Mountains. Following an abortive attempt at a then unclimbed route on the west peak of Mt. Crosscut, Al Uren and I stopped off in the upper Eglinton Valley. From an innoc...
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the holy grail of ice climbing in the Northeast was rumored to have been found in western Newfoundland, where the Vikings first landed in America nearly 500 years before Christopher Columbus. But the Southern Kni...
Climbers with disabilities have accomplished extraordinary feats in recent decades. Hugh Herr, Mark Wellman, and other adaptive climbers made international news with their ascents in the 1980s and ’90s, and in the 21st century, climbers with disab...
In the early 1970s, Roger Breedlove was a full-time climber in Yosemite: teaching climbing, doing big walls, and putting up classic routes like the Central Pillar of Frenzy and Freewheelin’ on Middle Cathedral Rock, and the first free ascent of Be...
I first laid eyes on the Emperor Face in October 2018. Winter had already arrived, and lines of snow and ice shimmered in the afternoon light. The wind whipped snow over the ridgeline and clouds spun around the summit. A prominent gully system l...
We had hoped to go to Nepal in the fall, but the pandemic decided otherwise. Pierrick Fine and I were forced to modify our plans just two weeks before our departure. The choices were limited—the only country that opened its doors to us was Pakista...