The west face of Mt. Woolsey (12,978’), showing (1) Where the Animals Go (Ochenski-Schunk, 1996), (2) When Old Meets New (Parsons-Schunk, 2021), and (3) Candalaria (Richardson-Schunk, 1995). The normal route up the south ridge is on the right sk...
Most climbers who’ve spent significant time on the Lower Saddle between the Grand Teton and the Middle Teton have looked off toward the western edge of the park and seen the large swath of granite walls that make up the backside of Table Mountai...
The slabs at the Mouth of Clarks Fork Canyon, showing new routes established by Sam Lightner Jr., Mike Lilygren, and Shep Vail from 2019 through 2021. In orange: M11 (22 pitches, 5.11). In yellow: Colter’s Rib (12 pitches, 5.10c). In pink: Back ...
I first noted the 1,200’ north face of Mt. Rearguard while skiing underneath it 11 years ago on the way to the Bears Tooth—a prominent granite/gneiss spire jutting out of the east face of Beartooth Mountain and the namesake for the entire range—an...
Nathaniel Bowen and I originally planned to climb the Abbey-Shock, a long 5.11 free climb from 1999 up the 1,800’ west face of the Upper Doublet. We hiked in from the East Rosebud trailhead on the evening of October 1, in the dark. After getting p...
On July 15, before completing a new route on Illampu (see report here), Brad Ward and I climbed what may have been a new route on a subpeak of Cerro Charquini. This summit of approximately 5,200m lies on the west ridge of Charquini at (16°17’46”S,...
On August 7, Fiona Tummon (Dutch/Irish) and I left Peñas in a taxi with a completely worn-out hand brake—probably due to not replacing the real brakes for far too long. Fortunately, our destination was uphill, close to the Paso Mullu col at 4,730...
Before we arrived in the Yukon in mid-April 2021, Mt. Logan (5,959m) and the St. Elias Mountains already occupied a distinct place in my psyche. In the literature, the desolate, silent expanses of snow and ice were juxtaposed against the fiery hum...
In a trip lasting June 18 to July 23, Mathieu Maynadier (France) and I attempted unclimbed Pumari Chhish East (6,850m, 36°11’59.38”N, 75°16’47.67"E), north of the Hispar Glacier. After around a week of travel from Europe, we arrived at a comfortab...
Peak 6,032m (Peak 243 or Maqbul Sar on Jerzy Wala's orographic sketch map of the Karun Koh Mountains) lies north-northwest of Karun Koh at 36°38'55.58"N, 75°04'03.66"E. It was first attempted in 2015 by Japanese Wataru Takasaki and Tatsutaro Yamam...
COVID-19 appeared to settle down during November, and Takuya Mitoro and I decided to go climbing overseas. It would be our first trip for at least two years. With the summer season in the Karakoram already passed, we opted to try some winter ascen...
On October 20, I reached the summit of the Giants Foot (also known as First Wall) in East Rosebud Canyon via the previously unclimbed northwest face. I climbed the route alone over 12 days of effort (climbing and shuttling gear). I used siege ta...
Snyelmn Pillar seen from the outlet of Sonielem Lake. Peak Y is in the background. Photo by Spencer Gray In early September, Damian Mast and I hiked to a north-facing pillar above the south shore of Sonielem Lake in the Mission Mountains Tri...
In late July, Kate Mylan and I climbed the high-quality fall line of the east face of the east subsummit (~8,400’) of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness. Castor Sally, a route I climbed with Alex Marine in 2020, is to the right of this new...
On May 10, shortly after their expedition to Yawash Sar II (see report here), Jedrzej Baranowksi and Andrzej Bargiel (Poland) reached the summit of Laila Peak (6,096m, 35°35'29.83"N, 76°24'38.70"E). Due to difficult conditions on the last section ...
In the spring, a Polish expedition traveled to far northern Pakistan to attempt unclimbed Yawash Sar II (6,176m), which had been attempted by Krzysztof Wielicki, solo, in the summer of 2019. The team trekked from Shimshal via Boesam Pass to a base...
James Price near the top of the south ridge of Darmyani with the Passu Glacier below. The Batura Wall rises more than 4,500m from the Hunza Valley to the south and stretches around 40km without ever dropping below 6,000m. I first set eyes on ...
Following acclimatization with climbs and ski descents in the southern Rakaposhi Range and Eastern Hindu Raj (see report here), Boris Langenstein, Aurélia Lanoé, Guillaume Pierrel, and I transferred to Skardu, trekked up the Baltoro Glacier, and...
The 2021 ascents on Garmush Zom I (left) and II. The snowy summit on the far left is Garmush Zom North. After four canceled flights and a week in the hot atmosphere of Islamabad, waiting for our skis to arrive, Boris Langenstein, Aurelia Lano...
In 2020, on satellite images, I spotted the cool looking west face of Storskiva (848m) on the island of Moskenesøya, in the far west of Lofoten. It seemed very hard to reach due to steep sea cliffs guarding the approach on both sides. I was able t...