On August 2, Aaron Harris and I shouldered heavy packs and started the pleasant hike toward Dewar Creek Hot Springs and ultimately Wall Tower. Two days later, we were settled into one of the nicest alpine campsites we’ve had the privilege of visiting, set above an azure-blue tarn below the north glacier of Hall Peak, with a sandy tent platform and a bathtub-warm tarn for a dip after a long day. Pattering rain was a welcome sign to lounge around for a day and rest our tired legs.

The next day dawned clear and cold. Originally intending to warm up on The Slim Princess (Caton-Rutherford, 2015) on the east face of Wall Tower, we instead decided to try climbing a new line between that route and State of Wonder (Caton-Rutherford, 2015). This attractive right-hand corner system was guarded by a dubious-looking chockstone down low and steep roofs up high.

Armed with a double rack, pitons, and a hand drill, Aaron won the roshambo and started up some nice granite flakes and cracks. Upon closer inspection, the huge chockstone was wedged firmly in place. The second pitch involved a traverse to the left on good face holds protected by a single bolt. This led us to the long right-facing corner system that continued to the top of the wall. After two more pitches up the corner, we decided to call it a day and fixed a rope for a free push the following day.

We woke to clear skies and warmer temps, ascended our fixed rope, and climbed and cleaned more pitches up nice corners. With one pitch to go, we decided to move 5m left out of the corner system and climb a splitter crack to a chimney breaching the south ridge of Wall Tower. We contemplated continuing up the steep, blank panels that guarded the summit, but with waning light and tired bodies, we decided to celebrate a high point and descend. We called our route The Fat Prince (250m, 5.11c). Difficulties were steady at 5.10+, with several cruxes at 5.11. Aaron freed every pitch, and I hung on the rope on the last pitch. We fixed this route for 60m rappels.

Before leaving, we repeated the east buttress of Hall Peak, a very enjoyable route up the highest summit in the Leaning Towers. With our remaining daylight, we packed up and hiked down to the hot springs, where a long soak was the cherry on top of a great trip.

— Stephen Senecal, Canada