On July 4, 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I climbed a new route on the south face of Mururata (5,871m). [Although always traditionally called the south face, this broad snow/ice wall faces more southwest.] We started near Guias AGMTB, the A...
At the start of June 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I decided to try one of the mixed routes on the southwest face of Huallomen (5,463m). Looking at the face from Condoriri Base Camp, we immediately saw the potential for a new line. We lef...
In February 2023, Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall opened another route on the east face of La Popa. El Visitante (7 pitches, 5.13c) is now the hardest route on the wall. The duo dedicated six weeks to exploring the remote desert and establishing the ...
Our expedition, jointly organized by the Himalayan Club and Chakram Hikers, uncovered a hidden treasure of unclimbed peaks in the Thangman Lungpa, located in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram. In August, Sudeep Barve, Mo...
In July, two teams attempted unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Batura Muztagh, north of the Hunza Valley. As with previous expeditions, they followed a prominent ridge that extends to the south from the Batura Wall. This was the route followe...
In June, Thomas Franchini made a solo attempt on the north face of Trivor (7,728m) in the Hispar Muztagh. He approached up the Momhil Valley, where he had climbed the previous year (AAJ 2023). Unfortunately, in June and July 2023 the conditions we...
On the north face of Kjerag, the 1,100m wall rising above the south shore of the Lysefjord, Jon Egil Auestad and Jan Eivind Danielsen (Norway) completed a new route on September 9 and 10. The two had explored the upper route earlier in the summer,...
(A) Peak 282 and (B) Peak 283 (Tuki Sar, 5,850m). The ascent of Tuki Sar was near the right skyline. The climbers then traversed to Peak 281 (AK Sar), hidden behind Peak 282. Photo by Jacob Dyer. In August, after over a year of planning, Will...
The lead-up to our planned trip to India had been a test of bureaucratic nerves, ultimately ending with it falling through at late notice. With little time, we managed to throw together a new itinerary in Pakistan, and on August 27, Arran Turton-P...
In September, Tim Oates and I hoped to make the first ascent of Dih Sar (6,200m) by the east ridge. Our plan involved crossing Joshi Pass (5,423m, 36°32’25.44”N, 75°18’26.63”E) to reach a base camp on the Dih Glacier. Unfortunately, Tim got altitu...
In August 1982, after attempts by Spanish climbers in 1975 and 1977, a third Spanish team, comprising seven members led by Joan López, made the first ascent of the southwest pillar of Saraghrar Northwest, reaching an indistinct top on the northwe...
The spectacular 1,200m west face of Mirror Wall (2,030m) appeared on most climbers’ radar during the first decade of the new millennium, when it was named and photographed by a British expedition. It was climbed in 2012, when a four-member Swiss t...
Pawel Haldas and I quickly learned that the temperature in West Greenland varies enormously in winter, and speed is often key to success when one’s access is dependent on sea ice. Our original goals lay on the walls of Storen, Uummannaq, and Agpat...
In late July and August, Ivan Shilnikov, Pavel Tkachenko, and I spent two weeks exploring the area west of Muisky Giant (also spelled Muiski or Muysky, 3,067m), the second-highest peak of Transbaikalia. This area of the South Muya Range (South Mui...
As Jed Brown observed in a report about his and Colin Haley’s first ascent of the southwest face of Abercrombie Mountain (7,037’) in 2007, good spring alpine conditions around Valdez are hard to come by. The mountains begin at sea level and rise t...
On April 7, Laron Thomas and I set out to explore a likely unclimbed 3,500’-plus couloir that slashes up the southwest face of Hearth Mountain. Standing at 6,182’, Hearth is located up the South Fork of the Snow River in the Kenai Mountains. We s...
The relative ease of access to Nenana Mountain, at the western margin of the Hayes Range, makes it well suited for smash-and-grab trips during short Alaskan high-pressure systems. On August 1, Tristan O’Donoghue and I returned to Nenana Mountain (...
After climbing a new route on Mt. Huntington (see story here) with Zac Colbran, Dane Steadman and I bumped over to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at the end of April. In ten days, we caught just one frigid day to climb between weather ...
On June 5, Jack Kuenzle (USA) climbed and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (20,310’), using skis, in 10 hours, 14 minutes, 57 seconds. Kuenzle followed the Rescue Gully cutoff between the two highest camps on the route. The previous fas...
Silvia Loreggian and I arrived in Alaska in mid-May for our first expedition to the Alaska Range, unsure what lay in store. At the first opportunity that weather allowed, we flew into the Kichatna Mountains and established a base camp on the Cul-d...