Sister Spire, a detached gray tower protruding from the south shoulder of Girls Mountain (6,134’), rises to a modest 5,580’. However, the sheer, triangular east face towers about 1,000’ above the Worthington Glacier, near Thompson Pass. Steep head...
On July 3, Matt Callahan made a solo ascent of Thiel Peak (5,910’; 58°41’49.0”N, 134°45’31.8”W). Callahan approached from the north end of the Juneau road system via the Davies Creek drainage, reached the saddle between Thiel and Dean Peak (Peak 5...
The Shark’s Tooth (ca 5,700’, 58°43’4.45”N, 134°45’32.11”W) is a mountain that continues to lure me. Matt Callahan and I made its first ascent via the southeast ridge in 2018, and Evan Hartung, Mike Miller, Ben Still, and I opened the south rib in...
The southeast ridge of Seahpo Peak is one of the longest continuous ridges in the continental United States. Sprouting out of the Cascadian jungle, it rises more than 4,000’ over 1.5 miles of horizontal travel before reaching the summit of 7,441’ ...
On April 23, Mikiko Fischel, our camp cook Lucrecia Chambi, and I camped by the shores of Laguna Huallatani in the central part of the southern Quimsa Cruz. The following day, Mikiko and I skied the glacier northeast of the lake to reach Coricampa...
On August 24, Gregg Beisly and I climbed a short new route up the northeast face of the northern summit of Pico Milluni (ca 5,450m), following a prominent corner system (4 pitches, New Zealand 21). However, the main goal of my visit to Bolivia was...
On July 4, 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I climbed a new route on the south face of Mururata (5,871m). [Although always traditionally called the south face, this broad snow/ice wall faces more southwest.] We started near Guias AGMTB, the A...
At the start of June 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I decided to try one of the mixed routes on the southwest face of Huallomen (5,463m). Looking at the face from Condoriri Base Camp, we immediately saw the potential for a new line. We lef...
In February 2023, Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall opened another route on the east face of La Popa. El Visitante (7 pitches, 5.13c) is now the hardest route on the wall. The duo dedicated six weeks to exploring the remote desert and establishing the ...
Our expedition, jointly organized by the Himalayan Club and Chakram Hikers, uncovered a hidden treasure of unclimbed peaks in the Thangman Lungpa, located in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram. In August, Sudeep Barve, Mo...
In July, two teams attempted unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Batura Muztagh, north of the Hunza Valley. As with previous expeditions, they followed a prominent ridge that extends to the south from the Batura Wall. This was the route followe...
In June, Thomas Franchini made a solo attempt on the north face of Trivor (7,728m) in the Hispar Muztagh. He approached up the Momhil Valley, where he had climbed the previous year (AAJ 2023). Unfortunately, in June and July 2023 the conditions we...
On the north face of Kjerag, the 1,100m wall rising above the south shore of the Lysefjord, Jon Egil Auestad and Jan Eivind Danielsen (Norway) completed a new route on September 9 and 10. The two had explored the upper route earlier in the summer,...
(A) Peak 282 and (B) Peak 283 (Tuki Sar, 5,850m). The ascent of Tuki Sar was near the right skyline. The climbers then traversed to Peak 281 (AK Sar), hidden behind Peak 282. Photo by Jacob Dyer. In August, after over a year of planning, Will...
The lead-up to our planned trip to India had been a test of bureaucratic nerves, ultimately ending with it falling through at late notice. With little time, we managed to throw together a new itinerary in Pakistan, and on August 27, Arran Turton-P...
In September, Tim Oates and I hoped to make the first ascent of Dih Sar (6,200m) by the east ridge. Our plan involved crossing Joshi Pass (5,423m, 36°32’25.44”N, 75°18’26.63”E) to reach a base camp on the Dih Glacier. Unfortunately, Tim got altitu...
In August 1982, after attempts by Spanish climbers in 1975 and 1977, a third Spanish team, comprising seven members led by Joan López, made the first ascent of the southwest pillar of Saraghrar Northwest, reaching an indistinct top on the northwe...
The spectacular 1,200m west face of Mirror Wall (2,030m) appeared on most climbers’ radar during the first decade of the new millennium, when it was named and photographed by a British expedition. It was climbed in 2012, when a four-member Swiss t...
Pawel Haldas and I quickly learned that the temperature in West Greenland varies enormously in winter, and speed is often key to success when one’s access is dependent on sea ice. Our original goals lay on the walls of Storen, Uummannaq, and Agpat...
In late July and August, Ivan Shilnikov, Pavel Tkachenko, and I spent two weeks exploring the area west of Muisky Giant (also spelled Muiski or Muysky, 3,067m), the second-highest peak of Transbaikalia. This area of the South Muya Range (South Mui...