Frostbite — Fatigue, Lack of Hydration and Nutrition
Canada, Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Mt. Logan
In late May, a group of three was attempting to climb King Trench (aka King’s Trench), the most frequented route up Mt. Logan (5,959 meters). Mt. Logan is the highest peak in Canada. This area of Kluane National Park and Reserve (KNPR) is known for harsh weather and its remote locale. The nearest airstrip is 150 kilometers away. King Trench is a ski-mountaineering objective that includes complex glacier travel. It takes most parties two to three weeks to complete, depending on weather and speed of acclimatization.
This group was at a high camp known as the Football Field (4,900 meters), generally the final camp before a summit attempt. Summit day is a committing 18-kilometer round trip. It requires climbers to go up and over Prospector’s Col (about 5,400 meters) and make a long traverse of the summit plateau to reach the top. Summit day requires excellent weather to complete safely.
The group of three had been stuck in bad weather for several days. As the weather started to clear late in the day on May 28, the team decided to make