On the Edge of Europe: Mountaineering in the Caucasus. Audrey Salkeld and José Luis Bermúdez. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1993. 260 pages, 20 black-and-white photographs, 4 maps. £18.99.In theory, the would-be adventurer to little known mountain...
The Pioneer Photographer, by William II. Jackson, Yonkers, World Book Co., 1929. $1.40.The author, the well-known photographer of the Hayden Survey in the Seventies, here gives us a different side of the picture from that published in the official...
Colorado, Crestone Needle—With the intention of doing winter mountaineering in the Crestones, Leif Patterson (25), Eliot Goss (24), and David Isles (24) met Stuart Krebs (25) at Westcliffe, Colorado on Saturday evening, January 30. Sunday they pac...
Logan Mountains. During July and August of 1967, Lew Surdam and I climbed in the previously unvisited northwestern sector of the Logan Mountains. We flew to the area by helicopter and established our first camp in a spacious boulder cave in a broa...
Huascarán’s East Face — Camino del EnfermoGEOFF WAYATT, New Zealand Alpine ClubTHE wind blew and shook the Camp IV tents around two A.M. At three A.M. Paul yelled to awaken me and I started brewing hot cocoa and the prior evening’s left-overs of c...
New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine. On March 17 Christopher MacRae (24) and Don Jensen (18) were involved in an avalanche in Damnation Gully. The background: a rope of two (from the Harvard Mountaineering Club) climbed North Gulley...
“Irish Peaks” of the Starbird Ridge, Taurus Group, Purcells. On July 2 Bruce and Sue Magnuson, my wife Gretchen, our one year-old daughter Kara, and I began our packing up “Irish Creek”, which crosses the Forster Creek road around mile 21½. From a...
SERAC FALLAlaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth GorgeOn May 15, Seth Shaw (38) and Tim Wagner (34) checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station and filled out a backcountry permit to climb Mount Johnson. They were flown into the Ruth Glacier, Denali National P...
Mount Everest, Austrian Expedition. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Oswald Ölz, Dr. Raimund Margreiter, Peter Habeler, Franz Oppurg, Helmut Hagner, Reinhold Messner, Hanns Schell, Robert Schauer, Horst Bergmann, Josl Knoll, the German Reinhard Kar...
Climbs in the Wrangell Range. On July 8 a six-man expedition under the leadership of Ed Lane and further consisting of Barbara Lilley, Dick Beach, Wally Henry, Bill Morris and me arrived at Gulkana Airfield, just north of Glennallen. After several...
Mount Burney, Monte Bove and Monte Francés, Tierra del Fuego. On January 9, John Earle, Jack Ewer and I set out in a Zodiac inflatable boat from Estancia Skyring, 100 miles by road from Punta Arenas. On the 15th, after a moderately rough voyage an...
Glacier 1 (Fake Peak Glacier) Peaks. From June 1-22 British climbers Mike Fletcher, Richard Leech, Oliver Shergold , and I visited the unfrequented Glacier 1 (a.k.a. Fake Peak Glacier). In the prevailing fine weather we made seven ascents, five of...
Sukakpak (typically pronounced suka-pak, 4,459') is a prominent landmark to Euro motorcycle tourists, RVers, and long-haul truckers who ply the Dalton Highway north of Coldfoot. To a climber, Sukakpak’s west face is even more conspicuous. ...
Kuh-e-Hevad, Qala Panja, Wakhan. A Czech expedition, led by Vladimir Sedivy and consisting of Rudolf Antonicek, Rudolf Cervinka, Milan Daniel, Ivan Gálfy, Vilém Heckel, Miroslav Jaskovsky, Radovan Kuchar, Miles Matras, Josef Psotka, Bedrich Roger,...
Rinzho Gol and Gordoghan Gol Regions. The Todorei Hindu Raj Expedition was made up of Chuji Sato, Toyoo Yamamoto, Yasuo Yaguchi and Miss Shuko Kuribayashi. On July 14 Yakuchi, Yamamoto and Miss Kuribayashi climbed P 5100 (16,733 feet) above the Ri...
McKinley, Northwest ButtressDONALD H. O. McLEANIt was rather unusual that both routes first attempted by Dr. Frederick Cook over 50 years ago were successfully climbed this year. At meetings of the Alpine Club at the University of Alaska, Elton Th...
Bear Creek Spire, South Face. In August I made the first ascent of this steep 1000-foot wall. I was prepared for a somewhat smaller face of more moderate angle as indicated on the disturbingly inaccurate topographical map. At the base of the wall,...
Master of Rock: The Biography of John Gill, by Pat Ament. Boulder: Alpine House Publishing, 1977. 197 pages, many black-and-white photos.The idea of someone who can climb levels harder than anyone else, which is what I had always heard about Gill,...
Hai Tower, Diggin’ for Dreams. The Half Moon, Choi Oy, and Hai Tower massif forms a giant open book, easily visible from the nearby Liberty Bell group near Washington Pass. It was hard for us to believe that such a massive face was unclimbed. Howe...
The Beartooth Mountains of MontanaNorman ClydeALTHOUGH situated only a few miles from the Yellowstone National Park and containing the loftiest mountains in Montana, the Beartooth Mountains are known to comparatively few. Their most widely adverti...