On July 29, 1978, Sheldon Moomaw was killed in a fall on 24,580-foot Noshaq in Afghanistan. With his passing, the climbing world has lost one of its most enthusiastic climbers. At 23,000 feet on Noshaq (after a long day of carrying 50-1b. loads), ...

Chola Shan I and Chola Shan II, Ascents, and Gurla Mandhata, Attempt. It was reported that in late summer and early fall, Charlie Fowler visited China and Tibet, making a solo second ascent of Chola Shan I (6168m) and a first ascent, also solo, of...

Kangchenjunga Attempt. An Australian expedition of five tried to climb Kangchenjunga by the normal route on the southwest face. Leader Michael Groom reached the expedition’s highest point alone on May 13 in a bid to see how high he could get above...

Jirishanca, East Face Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Moji Alpine Club of Kitakyushu City was led by Yoshijiro Fujishiro and had six other members. They set Base Camp at Carhuacocha on May 29, Camp I at 16,400 feet on June 7 and Camp II just un...

Charakusa Region, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. Giangi Angeloni, Angelo Carminati and Ennio Spiranelli traveled to the Charakusa Glacier (Hushe Valley) in August, 1997. Various ascents were made: Sulo Peak (6000m) by the South Couloir (5...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The summer activities of the H.M.C. in 1950 included the ascent of Nevado Yerupajá, Peru, by the Harvard Andean Expedition; and an expedition into the Glacier Circle area of the southern Selkirks, which made ascents of...

P 6390, Ishmurgh Valley. The expedition of the Hiroshima University Medical School Alpine Club climbed in the Chap Darra valley, the western fork at the head of the Ishmurgh valley. On August 5 the leader Tsuyoshi Hirai, Katsuji Doishikawa and Hir...

Pumori. The leader of our Indonesian expedition was Gunawan and the members were Eddy Djuandi, Sukmoyo, Nandang Syamsudin, Trivoni Sugiarto Senapi, Djodjo Sunardjo and me, the only woman. We reached Base Camp at 5340 meters on April 6 after a seve...

Monte Sarmiento, Attempt on Unclimbed West Summit, Tierra del Fuego. November 16 was the only stormless day in the 42 we spent on the expedition. At seven A.M. it stopped raining and the wind dropped at Base Camp on the Canal Magdalena at the nort...

Staunings Alper. Members of the Islandic Alpine Club chartered a plane and flew on July 21 from Iceland to Mestervig. The plane then dropped their gear on the Bersaekerbrae Glacier. Four days later they established Base Camp at 700 meters. They un...

FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierAbout 5:00 p.m. on July 7, rangers at Camp Muir were notified by Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., of a climbing team of three at the 13,000-foot level on the Ingraham Glacier in possible ne...

Jogin I, NorthRidge, 1983. Eight Japanese led by Kaoru Aoyagi established Base Camp at 15,425 feet on Kedar Tal on September 8, 1983, Advance Base at 16,075 feet on the 11th and Camps I and II at 18,550 and 19,850 feet on the 18th and 22nd. On Sep...

“Paramount Peak”, Farnham Group. At 9900 feet “Paramount Peak” is the higher of two prominent rock peaks located at the southern extremity of the Farnham group and visible along parts of the Toby Creek road west of Invermere. On July 23 my wife Gr...

Sierra de Sangra, Cerro Cocoví (2,155m), north flank. The Sierra de Sangra includes an icefield of ca 100km2, east of Lago San Martin, in the province of Santa Cruz. Its highest peak, marked on the map as 2,155m, had no name. It was time it was cl...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Bastille, Werk SuppOn July 14, Preston Brennan (47), an experienced climber, and his partner were climbing Werk Supp, a 5.9 route located on the Bastille. Witnesses noted tha...

REVIEW OF ACCIDENTS 1953Maine—Katahdin: David Ripley (21) of Belmont, Mass., while leading, suffered a fall of about 100 feet on September 12, 1953. He was rock climbing with Robert Kruseyna (25) on Pamola. His fall was down a slope and not a shee...

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. The Bavarian-Austrian Nanga Parbat Expedition was composed of Austrians Peter Wörgötter, deputy leader, Oswald Gassier and Hans Hirschbichler and Germans Joachim Labisch and me as leader. Our objective had been to make t...

Southern Sierra, Domelands, Poison Domes, Various Ascents. Over the past three summers, spurred on by Mark Robinson’s persistence and love for steep rock, Steve Offerman, Mark and I established nine new rock climbs, ranging in difficulty from 5.10...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Summit Area, Wet Dream FallsOn Feb. 2,1993, a party of two were climbing the first pitch of this ice gully The leader, P.F., placed a screw midway up his 16 meter lead, and unsuccessf...

Radhanath. A 12-member Indian team from Calcutta arrived at Base Camp at Vasuki Tal at 16,450 feet on June 17. They set up Camps I and II at 17,400 and 18,800 feet on June 18 and 19. Leader Bibhas Das, Chinmoy Ghosh and porters Balbir Singh and Dh...