AAC, New York Section. As the millennium approached, the New York Section could look back on 25 years of continued growth and a strong tradition of volunteerism and financial support on behalf of Club causes. Now numbering more than 600 members—a ...
Skardatindar, new route. In February Jean-Baptist Deraeck, Sebastien Ibanez, Sébastien Ratel, and I climbed what we think is a new route on Skardatindar (1,385m). We did not have any information on this mountain. We expected to find a route, but c...
Mont Blanc Sideshow, The Life and Times of Albert Smith, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo., 255 pages including appendices, bibliography and index, containing twenty-nine illustrations. Philadelphia. The John C. Winston Co., 1934. Price $2.50.The aut...
Overview. Forty-six foreign and 47 Indian expeditions climbed in the Indian Himalaya during 2005. These numbers were lower than normal. Among the foreign expeditions, more that half climbed on such standard objectives as Nun, Kun, and Kedar Dome. ...
Ama Dablam, Southeast Face. Sergei Bogomolov, Dmitri Botov, Sergei Golubtsov and I climbed a new route on Ama Dablam in pure alpine-style with no fixed camps, no fixed rope and no Sherpa porters. We placed Base Camp on the Nare Glacier at 5300 met...
Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), southeast ridge. On August 20 at 4 p.m., Marlin Geist, Donald Goodman, Chris Robertson, and I, with Sherpas Nima Dorje, Pemba Norbu, and Ming Temba, completed a new route on Chong Kumdan I. Our route climbed the southeast ...
Mala Pata in the Paine Towers, ChileCraig Peer, D.O.C.C. AS US SCOTTY’S MINIBUS turns the corner, I’m greeted by a stunning sight. Finally, after 8000 miles, we’re here at Chile’s Torres del Paine. Out of the flat pampa, countless ice and rock pea...
Nilgiri Parbat Attempt and Ascent. Indians V. Shankar, leader, Vinay Hegde, Vivek Hegde and Dinesh Shertate set up Base Camp three kilometers below the snout of the Khulia Garvia Glacier on May 20. They set up three more high camps on the western ...
AAC, Cascade Section. The Cascade Section held three events in 2001. The first was the Goran Kropp slideshow on July 13. Organized by Helly Hansen and sponsored by the AAC, this was the amazing story of Goran’s bicycle journey from Sweden to Kathm...
Mont Blanc Massif, Volume I: Selected Climbs. Lindsay Griffin, general editor Les Swinden. Alpine Club, London. 268 pages, 30 diagrams (topos), 87 black -and-white photographs with route markings.This is the third updated edition of the first of t...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, North Cascades, Liberty BellOn August 14, Stim Bullit (75) and I (47) were climbing the third pitch (I led the first two pitches)—a crack above a ledge. Stim got to the crux of the 5.8 crack, couldn’t f...
Cerro Stanhardt, Tomahawk and Exocet, Ascents. The Bridwell-Smith route Exocet on the southeast face of Cerro Stanhardt remains the most popular venue on this tower, and the 1995- ’96 season was no different. However, despite many attempts, it is ...
Rajuntay, West Face and Other Climbs. E. López and A. Tordoya, of the Club Andino Peruano, made the first ascent of Rajuntay (5477 meters, 17,970 feet) in the local winter or rainy season (April 20, 1980). They climbed the east face, experiencing ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPELERROR, DISLODGED ROCKNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the sixteen accidents related to climbing in this popular, easily accessed area, we have a typical profile for the majority of cas...
Mystery Towers, Various Ascents. In March, in the remote Mystery Towers just east of Fisher Towers, Keith Reynolds and Alan Stevenson climbed The Fortress (5.8 A3, five pitches) on Kitty Litter Wall. The route ascends the south-facing buttress adj...
Washington, Big Four Mt. On June 5, a large group (8 or 9) made up of several parties climbed Big Four Mt. The majority of the climbers were experienced mountaineers, and the climb was made by several routes. Climbing conditions were hazardous due...
On June 12, 1980, David Swarbrick (19) was leading the first pitch of Direct South Face (5.10) and was approximately 40 feet up when he fell. As he was more than 20 feet above his last protection, he hit the ground. He suffered lacerations and c...
Annapurna I, South Face, Attempt. Mountaineers from Ekaterinburg, Russia, headed by S. Efimov, tried to climb Annapurna I (8091 m) from the south by Bonington’s route but owing to very bad weather only two of its members, Yuri Ermachek and Alexey ...
Quebec, Laurentians, Weir Cliff. On 7 April a group of climbers includ- ing John Brown (28) was climbing on Weir Cliff, the route was the Yellow line Alpine grade 4 with move of 5th. Conditions: Cliff shedding patches of winter ice; weather mild. ...
The Incredible Hulk, free routes. On July 3, Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, and Greg Epperson established Airstream (V 5.13), considered the most difficult free climb in the High Sierra. In August, Croft returned to the Incredible Hulk with Andrew Stev...