FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Summit Area, Wet Dream Falls

On Feb. 2,1993, a party of two were climbing the first pitch of this ice gully The leader, P.F., placed a screw midway up his 16 meter lead, and unsuccessfully attempted to put in another just below the top. He fell while pulling over the edge, and a ground-fall resulted. He suffered a compound fracture of one ankle and a fractured talus bone of the other. He was slung out by the Warden Service rescue team.

Analysis

If the leader had succeeded in placing an additional ice screw before making the tricky move to reach lower-angled ice, the consequences of having his tools pull out may not have been as severe. (Source: Banff National Park Warden Service)

(Editors Note: The victim expresses his good fortune in having had a capable and rational companion with a considerable amount of emergency training, and also makes special note of the Parks Service wardens and the helicopter pilot who handled his evacuation quickly and with skill and understanding.)