Aconcagua, 2005-2006 season overview. From November 15, 2005, to March 15, 2006, the Parque Provincial Aconcagua had 7,285 visitors who trekked or climbed. This is 12.5% more than the preceding year. There are now 40 rangers (34 in the early seaso...
Kun Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of sixteen members, including four women, two guides and four high-altitude porters. After a difficult crossing of the flooding Suru River at Ringdom Gompa, we headed up the Shafat valley to Base...
Nanga Parbat Attempt and Tragedy. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Motumu Omiya arrived in the Diamir valley in early October. After climbing Ganalo Peak West (6290 meters, 20,637 feet), they turned to Nanga Parbat on October 20. They establ...
The South African Andean Expedition started its climbing in the Fitz Roy area from December 1972 to February 1973. The main objective was the Fitz Roy Supercouloir. The weather during our stay was at least consistent: five good days in ten weeks! ...
Nanda Ghunti, 1989. Mike Lamont, Ian Inch, Bill Turner, Fiona Turner, Colin Roberts and I made the first British ascent of Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet). The first ascent was made by Swiss in 1947 by the same route we climbed. The walk-i...
Peaks above Pourquoi Pas Glacier, East Greenland. On June 23, Alan Jones, Graham Harkness, Andrew Howick, Sandra Gregson, John Starbuck, Paul Walker, Lucy Walker and I as leader were flown to the Pourqoi Pas Glacier, where we set up Base Camp at 6...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On August 4, Mr. Nicholas Peters (22) injured himself while glissading on the Nisqually Glacier. He suffered a puncture-type wound above the right ear from the spike of his ice axe. Bleeding was serious and he...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, New Route. On May 19, Juraj Hreus and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Denali. From the 14,200-foot camp we started climbing at 8 a.m. and climbed on the northwest face until 7 p.m., encountering 10 pi...
Lanin (12,390 ft., Lat. 39° 40’ S., Long. 71° 30’ W., on Argentine-Chilean boundary). The first ascent of this peak was effected on February 9th, 1933, by A. T. Howat and E. de la Motte. From a base camp at 3,600 ft. near the Tromen police station...
Everest Environmental Expedition. A full article on this expedition appears earlier in this volume.Everest Attempt. Our expedition had hoped to climb the Great Couloir, but due to the lack of snow and rockfall we decided on the west ridge. Our cli...
Mukut Parvat (7,242m). Lionel Albrieux’s eight-member French team approached this high mountain from Ghastoli, establishing base camp at 4,800m on the Pachhimi (West) Kamet Glacier. After putting an advanced base at 5,300m, they climbed alpine-sty...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Ian Wade (30), Jen Jern (28), Mathew Wells (29), Ray Smutek (39), Robert Redmayne (32) and James Roscoe (25) were ascending the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier planning to climb the Cassin Ridge. Approxim...
Everest, summer and autumn attempts with ski and snowboard. In stark contrast to the spring season, when 69 teams swarmed on the north and south sides of Everest, there was only one expedition on the entire mountain in the summer and just one othe...
P 5550 and Badshani, above Pasu Glacier. Jonathan Preston and I arrived at the Pasu Glacier on August 9, hoping for a month’s climbing on worthwhile alpine objectives below 6000 meters to make full use of Pakistan’s trekking regulations. One week ...
P 11,880 and P 11,610, North Fork of Ruth Glacier. Our expedition was made up of Konstantin Ferrari, leader, Gert Judmaier, Hans Penz, Wolfgang Wippler, Helmut Tschaffert and me. After being landed on the Ruth Glacier on June 19, we had very warm ...
FALL ON ROCK—HAND HOLD CAME OFF, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Castle Mountain, Goat Plateau ApproachOn July 15, a party of two climbers scrambled up the standard approach for the Castle Mountain bivi hut. During the approach, they lost the rough trail and e...
Annapurna South Face. Bae Hyun-Chul, Kang Duk-Moon, Im Jong-Bum, Hwang Dong-Jin, Hong Jea-Ki, Lee Soo-Ho, Kim In-Ki, Kim Jae-Suck, Jung Hyun-Gu, Park Jung-Hun, Lee Won-Hee and I as leader climbed on the south face of Annapurna. We established Base...
El Capitan, Highway To Hell. Gabor Berecz and I, both from Munich, spent a few weeks again this year in Yosemite. After making the fifth ascent of Never Never Land (VI 5.10a A3-) with bivies, climbing the very dirty Aquarian Wall (VI 5.10a A2+) (b...
Andrew Embick pioneered big walls, steep ice, and cold waters in Alaska and Canada from the mid-1970s through the nineties. He mentored and inspired a generation of Alaskan boaters and climbers. He was a father of two, brother of three, and friend...
THOMAS WALTER1958-1992Tom Walter was climbing toward the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker after two days on the Pink Panther route. Tom, Colby Coombs and Ritt Kellogg were climbing quickly, anxious to finish the route in worsening weather when fro...