Huascarán. In early July Dave King, Brian Gregory, Jerry Martens, and I retreated from the southwest ridge of Huascarán. We marched around the mountain and five days later found ourselves on the summit via the standard route.Tom Limp, Freelance Al...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C., Cascade Section. As usual, the Section enjoyed an active year. Several members attended the annual outings of the A.C.C. and the Mountaineers at Mt. Robson. Fred Ayres and Don Woods made a number of fi...
Ama Dablam Attempts. Swiss Ivano Regazzoni, Athos Balestra and Franco Dellatorre attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam but could get no higher than 5700 meters on October 14. South Koreans led by Lee Hun-Sang were also unsuccessful, attempting t...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 9, 1985, a man (27) was climbing Congratulations (F9, 5.10) when he was injured in a leader fall. He took two short falls at the crux move, and both were held by a #7 stopper....
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDMaine, Camden, The RampartsI think of the accident described here as the case of the wet ladder. On March 17, my girlfriend’s dog, Kaya, and I, Ryan J. Howes (22), went on a 1.0 mile hike to a local climbing...
Cerro Pollone, lower south buttress of east summit; Beg, Borrow, or Steal. Blair Williams and I arrived in El Chalten on January 7. The next day we arranged for horses to carry our bags to Piedra del Fraile, our planned base camp and a pleasant pl...
Sahuasiray Group, Cordillera Urubamba. Robin Hildrew, John Turner, Paul Krebs, David Winser, Beryl Griffiths and Bruce Grierson of the Andean Society climbed two peaks above Wasanqocha in the Quebrada Humanchoque: P 16,250, a rock peak previously ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, WEATHER New Hampshire, Willey SlideOn November 17, 1987, Brian Donleavy (20) was found near the base of Willey Slide by members of the New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Service. He had been reported missing by ...
FALL ON SNOW-SKI MOUNTAINEERING, INADEQUATE EQUPMENT FOR THE CONDITIONSOregon, Mount Hood, Reid GlacierOn May 6, four experienced climbers were circumnavigating Mount Hood (crossing Yokum Ridge) at the 7,600-foot elevation when telemark skier Jere...
Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent. Jerzy Kukuczka and Leszek Czok reached the summit of Dhaulagiri by the north face on the 1984-5 winter season, but Czok got frostbitten toes as the result of a bivouac made on the night after reaching the summit when the...
Northern Peaks. The northern section of the range has been little climbed and several unclimbed peaks still remain. On July 27th and 28th, 1953, Leigh Ortenburger and Bill Buckingham made the first ascents of the unnamed peaks, 10,950 feet and 11,...
Waterfall Climbs, Canadian Rockies. On March 22,I made what is perhaps only the second on-sight solo of the formidable Canadian Rockies’ alpine waterfall “Slipstream,” taking four hours for the Grade V ascent. Marc Twight made the first on-sight s...
FALL ON ROCK, BROKEN ROCK FLAKE Alaska, Mount JohnsonOn July 12, 1989, Seth Shaw (31) and Bob Ingle were attempting a new route on the East Buttress of Mount johnson in the Ruth Gorge. They were about 300 meters above the Ruth Glacier by 1600. Sha...
ALLAN BARD1952-1997Allan Bard died on July 5 from injuries sustained in a 200-foot fall while leading a climb of the Owen-Spalding Route on the Grand Teton in Wyoming.A 20-year resident of the Eastern Sierra and 15-year resident of Bishop, Allan w...
Broad Peak. Numerous ascents of Broad Peak by the normal route are now being made every year. Some are given in separate reports. See accounts by Josef Rakoncaj, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Gregorio Ariz and Tomo Cesen. Swiss led by Frank Tschirky and Ger...
Cutthroat Peak, “Portly Gentleman’s Route.” On August 28, Brian Buck and I left the North Cascades Highway 1.8 miles west of the Washington Pass scenic turnout, crossed State Creek and ascended steep alpine meadows as if heading for the west-ridge...
Pumari Chhish South and Yazghil Dome South Attempts. Our expedition had two objectives: to make the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South and to gather granite samples to determine the rate of rise of the Disteghil Sar region. After financial diffic...
Unnamed Peak 6184m, attempt. Situated northeast of Phabrang, this unnamed and unclimbed peak was unsuccessfully attempted during July and August by Yasutada Sawairi’s 12-member Japanese team. The expedition approached from Darcha on the Manali to ...
Dudh Kundari. A French expedition led by Dominique Mathieu Goudrier had hoped to climb Kanjiroba South but the difficulty of the approach was so great that they could not get there. They did climb Dudh Kundari (6014 meters, 19,731 feet).Elizabeth ...
Die Schneeberge Ecuadors. Marco Cruz. Eigenverlag, Nürnberg, 1983. 175 pages, 14 color and 53 black and white photographs, 30 maps and line drawings. DM 36.