Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Organ Mountains, complete south-to-north traverse, Organ Saint Traverse New Mexico, Organ Mountains

From April 25–27, Glen Melin, Jon Tylka, and I made the first recorded traverse of the Organ Mountains skyline, climbing from south to north. The Organ Mountains form the rugged barrier between the Tularosa Basin and the Mesilla Valley in southern...

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| Published 2014 | Author Nathan Fry


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Lobuche East, East Face, Two Arrows Flight Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section

On April 27, Yuri Kilichenko, Makcym Perevalov, Petro Pobebeghnyi, and Yuri Vasenkov from Ukraine completed a new route on the ca 900m east face of Lobuche (Lobuje or Lubuje) East. Incorrectly marked as Abi on the official HMG-Finn map of the Khum...

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| Published 2014 | Author Lindsay Griffin and Yuri Kilichenko


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Janahut, Southwest Buttress and Southwest Ridge, Attempt India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri

Janahut (6,805m) had been attempted by five previous teams. In June we (Malcolm Bass and Simon Yearsley) became the sixth—and the sixth team to fail. Our original goal had been the southwest face of Rimo III, which we had attempted in 2012 (AAJ 20...

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| Published 2014 | Author Malcolm Bass and Simon Yearsley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Illimani, Pico Norte, South Spur Attempt Bolivia, Cordillera Real

In June, Italians Marco Erbetta, Enrico Rosso, and Father Antonio Zavattarelli, the latter a missionary in Penas, made an unsuccessful attempt on the south spur of the west ridge on Pico Norte (6,403m). Other members of the team were Paola Anzola ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
First crossing of Chaukhamba (Meade's) Col (6,093m) India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri

Chaukhamba Col lies northeast of Chaukhamba I (7,138m), on the ridge connecting it with Januhut (6,805m). A crossing of this col, from the Bhagat Kharat to Gangotri glaciers, forming the most direct route between the two famous pilgrimage sites of...

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| Published 2013 | Author Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kang Yissay Range, Cha Ri (ca 6,046m) India, Ladakh

A small British party made, more or less, the first ascent of a previously unnamed 6,000m peak in the range running southeast from Kang Yissay (6,400m). They stopped eight meters below the summit, beneath a very rotten cone of rock.Led by Douglas ...

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| Published 2013 | Author Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bhilangna Valley, Satling peaks, first ascents. India, Uttarakhand, Garhwal Himal

In the post-monsoon a team of eight German females made first ascents in the Satling group south of impressive Thalay Sagar. The Satling Valley had been visited by Martin Moran (AAJ 2003) and Tom Dauer (AAJ 2005), but while both described the high...

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| Published 2013 | Author Mirjam Limmer, Germany


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pensilungpa Glacier, Hidden Peak 5,802m, north-northwest ridge; Twin Peak East (5,825m), north face. India, Zanskar

Overshadowed by its more extensive neighbour, the Durung Drung Valley immediately east, the Pensilungpa Valley is rarely visited. It does, however, have some fine unclimbed mountains, as Mike Pinney, Chris Storie, Tony Westcott, and I found on our...

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| Published 2013 | Author Derek Buckle, Alpine Club, U.K.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kullu, Tos Nala, Gilehri Pakro (ca 5,250m) India, Himachal Pradesh

On October 2, Stefano Suplizi, Lorenzo Trento, and I climbed a small peak in the Tos Valley. From Manikaran, via Tos village, we followed the Tos River for three days to a base camp at Samshi Thacth (3,800m). From here we had to cross to the east ...

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| Published 2013 | Author Massimo Marcheggiani, Italy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Harischandragad Fort, Kokankada, Left Route (changed route, almost free ascent) India, Sahyadri Range

Kokankada is the ca 600m concave cliff, over 1.5km in length, on the southwest side of Harischandragad Fort (Maharashtra). It is the most scenic natural formation in the Sahyadri. In December 1985 a team from Mumbai made the first ascent of the so...

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| Published 2013 | Author Samiran Kolhe, India


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rongdo Valley, various first ascents India, East Karakoram

A team of 12 mountaineers from the Indian Air Force, plus Sherpas, explored the little-known Rongdo Valley in May–June, summiting seven peaks, of which six were above 6,000m. Only two mountaineering expeditions have visited this region before (AAJ...

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| Published 2013 | Author Gp. Camp. V.K. Sashindran, Indian Air Force


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Plateau Peak (7,287m), west ridge India, East Karakoram

The Kolkata section of the Himalayan Club visited the Saser Kangri Group in July-August, with the aim of making the first ascent of Plateau Peak. Although several teams have tried Plateau Peak in the past, either from the west via the South Phukpo...

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| Published 2013 | Author Pradeep Sahoo, Himaayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Palzampiu Valley, Likir (5,619m GPS), east flank; Nia (5,681m GPS) west ridge India, Ladakh

In August I traveled to Ladakh and climbed two previously virgin peaks on the southern rim of the Palzampiu Valley. My goal had been to reach the restricted area of the Siachen Glacier, but all expeditions, including one from the Indian Air Force,...

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| Published 2013 | Author Malgorzata Skowronska, Poland/U.K.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Miyar Valley, Sanjana Peak (5,937m), southwest ridge; Mt. Sealth (5,968m) east ridge; David’s 62 Nose (4,950m), southwest face, Emerson-Owen Route India, Himachal Pradesh

In August, Sandeep Nain, Jason Schilling, and I headed up the Miyar Valley with two cooks and eight horses, against the flow of shepherds and their flocks moving to the lowlands of Himachal and the Punjab. The incredible scenery was enough to keep...

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| Published 2013 | Author Tim Halder, AAC


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Miyar Valley, Masala Peak (5,650m), Los Crotos (not to summit); Neverseen Tower (5,750m), Changa Style (not to summit) India, Himachal Pradesh

For 20 days in September, Carloncho Guerra, Aztlan Madio, and I visited the Miyar, intending to climb new rock routes. We took a public bus to the road head and didn't hire porters, horses, or even a cook for base camp. With bad weather and heavy ...

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| Published 2013 | Author Lucas Alzamora, Argentina


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kuchela Dhura (6,294m), north face and east ridge India, Kumaun Himalaya

From the summit of Kuchela Dhura, a sharp, three-kilometer ridge runs southwest toward Nanda Kot (6,861m), and the idea of climbing it came to mind in 2011, when I was on the upper section of nearby Changuch (AAJ 2012). In 2012 I organized an expe...

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| Published 2013 | Author Dhruv Joshi, India


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Kishtwar Kailash, Southwest Face India, Himachal Pradesh, Kishtwar Himalaya

The start of this trip was particularly stressful, as the political situation in Kishtwar had become tense following the deaths of several people in a protest. As a result, our permit was only confirmed a couple of days before we were due to arriv...

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| Published 2013 | Author Paul Ramsden, Alpine Club, U.K.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Palzampiu Valley, Jungdung Kangri (6,060m), Shaft of Justice and The Monypenny Hall of Fame India, Ladakh

With Pakistan travel plans falling through, my good friend James Monypenny (U.K.) and I quickly regrouped. With nothing more than a photograph and an incredibly vague topographical map, we set our sights on a previously unattempted 6,060m granite ...

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| Published 2013 | Author Cory Hall, Canada


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Upper Darcha Valley, Goat Peak (6,080m GPS); Para Handy Ridge India, Himachal Pradesh

In 2012 the Scottish Zanskar Expedition attempted a couple of unclimbed 6,000m peaks in the Namkha Tokpo (AAJ 2013). One succumbed, but the other (G22) showed an unexpected lack of consideration. However, a potential route up the south face was sp...

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| Published 2013 | Author Susan Jensen, Scottish Mountaineering Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Under Moonlight (6,035m), southwest flank; Hana's Men (6,191m), east face; Hagshu (6,515m), southeast ridge, attempt India, Zanskar

In June, Jonn Jeanneret, Dan Kopperud, Jake Preston, Gabriel Thomas, and I (Australian or American, but all based in Asia) traveled to India to attempt a peak in the Gangotri. On the 17th, Uttarakhand state was hit by the largest flash flood in ne...

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| Published 2013 | Author Bryan Hylenski, South Korea