On January 8, 2015, Jon Glassberg and I climbed a long new route on the east face of the East Peak of Bridge Mountain. The first six pitches climb a wide crack system visible on the left side of this multi-colored wall and can be seen from the 13-mile loop road, between Icebox and Juniper canyons. The easiest approach ascends the middle of three broad gullies beneath the east side of Bridge Mountain, starting from a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Pine Creek trailhead.

We found two bolted anchors on the first three pitches (5.6–5.9 cracks and chimneys) and then a bail anchor about 12m up the fourth pitch, suggesting a prior attempt on the route. The fourth pitch heads up a gaping chimney, which narrows to a squeeze, and finally a finger and hand crack (5.10c). From there, four more pitches of cracks and chimneys gain the crux ninth pitch, which climbs a roof crack to a slab (5.10d). Two more pitches gain the top of the ridge and complete Bromancing the Stone (1,200’, IV 5.10d).

To descend, stay as close to the ridge crest as possible, careful not to veer into Icebox Canyon. We made one single-rope rappel off a tree (perhaps not necessary) then followed cairns, in the dark, down a delightfully improbable path that was never harder than fourth class. Either traverse the long hillside back to the base of the route or continue straight down a gully to the loop road (2–3 hours).

– Chris Weidner