Jason Nelson and I free climbed the Central Pillar/Watchman Direct on the Watchman on October 30. Bryan Bird and Zach Lee had previously freed most of the route, up to a feature called the Red Clam, at 5.11. For us, the remaining three pitches went free at 5.10+. We climbed the route onsight in a day, descending via the south ridge after 14 pitches (420m, V 5.11c).

We started on a fingers to wide hands crack, then climbed a variation on the second pitch. The rest of the route was a mix of high-quality hand cracks, scrappy offwidths, and stacked blocks. Pitches near the rim of the canyon always keep you honest, and adventure here doesn’t finish till you’re at the car.

– Steffan Gregory