Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Alpinist, Northeast Face, Trophy Hunt Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-too

Dane Steadman (25), Jared Vilhauer (42), and I (41) traveled to the Western Kokshaal-too mountains of Kyrgyzstan for the month of September.  We choose this time frame based on two factors: 1) the temperatures are significantly cooler than in m...

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| Published 2023 | Author Seth Timpano


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FREE SOLO FALL California, El Cajon Mountain, The Wedge

On December 4, Nathaniel Masahi Takatsuno (22) fell to his death while free soloing Leonids, a three-pitch 5.9 on the Wedge at El Cajon Mountain. Climber Michael Sandler witnessed the accident. In his report to Accidents, he wrote, “As we were wa...

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| Published 2022 | Author Michael Sandler, Climbing.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
RAPPEL FATALITIES — Broken Anchor Sling California, Tahquitz Rock

On Wednesday, September 28, Chelsea Walsh (33), a documentary filmmaker, and Gavin Escobar (31), an ex–Dallas Cowboys football player, died in a fall at Tahquitz Rock (Lily Rock). The Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit (RMRU) responded to the accident...

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| Published 2022 | Author James Eckhardt, RMRU and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
RAPPEL FATALITY — Broken Sling California, Joshua Tree National Park, Sheep Pass Area

On March 26, Tina Fiori (51) fell approximately 60 to 80 feet to the ground from a sport route called Turkey Terror (5.9) on the Wailing Sax Wall. Matt Himmelstein (55) was climbing with Fiori and one other climber. He later reported on Facebook ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Matt Himmelstein and Mountainproject.com


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL FREE SOLO FALL California, Joshua Tree National Park, Real Hidden Valley

The Riverside County Sheriff’s Department reported that on the morning of January 18, Michael Spitz (35) was found dead by by two hikers at the base of Illusion Dweller (5.10b) in Joshua Tree National Park. The Riverside County Coroner’s Office es...

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| Published 2022 | Author Gabriel B., Riverside County Sheriff’s Department, Riverside County Coroner’s Office, and Climbing.com.


Accident Reports ANAM
RAPPEL ERROR — Inadequate Backup California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Matthes Crest

On August 13, a 911 caller reported that a male climber had fallen from Matthes Crest. The initial report stated the climber, part of a team of five, had taken a long fall and potentially sustained an open leg fracture. After the SAR team was noti...

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| Published 2022 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
STRANDED — Inexperience California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Cathedral Peak

On June 22, at approximately 9:15 a.m., Yosemite dispatch received a 911 call from two distressed and stranded climbers four pitches up the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak (5 pitches, 5.6). The climbers humbly said they were “incompetent, exh...

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| Published 2022 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
STRANDED — Severe Weather California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

On April 23, the Yosemite Search and Rescue team (YOSAR) responded to a call from two climbers stranded near the top of Pacific Ocean Wall (28 pitches, VI 5.9 A3+) on El Capitan. The climbers were uninjured, but after weathering a multi-day winter...

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| Published 2022 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite National Park, Washington Column

On June 28, at 10:59 a.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a report of a 42-year-old male who had taken an approximately 50-foot climbing fall on The Prow (V 5.8 C2) on Washington Column. The climber’s plan had been a multi-day, aid-solo ascent. On the...

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| Published 2022 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
LONG LEADER FALL—Off Route California, Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

On August 1 at 1:58 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a 911 call from Jack Evans (male, 20s) stating that his climbing partner, Anna Parsons (female, 21), had taken a fall of approximately 80 feet on the third pitch of Snake Dike (8 pitches, 5.7). ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers and Climbing.com


Accident Reports ANAM
GROUND FALL—Broken Carabiner California, Mickey's Beach, Kombucha Crag

At 10:30 a.m. on May 14, Climber 1 (male, 27) and Climber 2 (male, 26) arrived at Kombucha Crag, a waterfront cliff north of San Francisco. They both had over four years of climbing experience, indoors and outdoors. After several hours of climbing...

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| Published 2022 | Author Climber 1 and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
RAPPEL FATALITY—Top-Rope Soloing California, Auburn Quarry, Scale Well

On April 1, climber X (female, 45), was top-rope soloing Landslide (5.8), an 80-foot sport route on the extreme right of the popular Scale Wall, a limestone cliff in Auburn State Recreation Area, northeast of Sacramento. A group of climbers includ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Christian Kiefer and Mark Paden


Accident Reports ANAM
PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL CONDITION—Ascending Too Fast California, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Route

Around 9:30 p.m. on Friday, October 7, two climbers (both male, mid-20s) left the San Francisco area for a fast ascent of Mt. Shasta by the Clear Creek route up the southeast side, a 16-mile round trip with 7,800 feet of elevation gain. In late su...

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| Published 2022 | Author Climber and Partner and The Editors


Climbs And Expeditions ANAM
MULTIPLE FALLS IN ICY CONDITIONS—Five Injured, One Fatality California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

In a 24-hour period beginning on June 6, four incidents saw five climbers injured and a climbing guide killed on Mt. Shasta. A storm over the prior weekend doused Shasta with rain, snow, fog, and freezing temperatures, creating very firm and icy c...

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| Published 2022 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
FALL ON ICY TERRAIN California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

In the afternoon of May 21, a mother (62) and daughter were descending the Avalanche Gulch route. They were unfamiliar with the route and attempted to descend the climber’s left side of the Red Banks, a steep, reddish band of cliffs. The narrow ch...

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| Published 2022 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
FALSE INREACH ACTIVATION California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

On May 15 at 10 a.m., the Siskiyou County Sheriff’s Office called U.S. Forest Service ranger Nick Meyers to inform him of an inReach SOS activation near Red Banks, a series of cliffs that form a prominent landmark on the Avalanche Gulch route. No ...

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| Published 2022 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
MOUNT SHASTA SUMMARY California, Shasta-Trinity National Forest

During all of 2022, there were a total of 11 SAR incidents on Mt. Shasta, about half of the running average of 20 incidents per year since 1992. Eight of the incidents were rescues, one a self-rescue, and one a false alarm (false inReach activatio...

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| Published 2022 | Author U.S. Forest Service Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
AVALANCHE Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali, West Rib Route

After three days of sunny weather, I, Jacob Weintraub (24), and my partner, Randy Lee (37), had finished a double carry beyond the icefall at the end of the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We camped at the base of the West Rib route. On M...

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| Published 2022 | Author Jacob Weintraub


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL CREVASSE FALL Alaska, Denali National Park, Kahiltna Glacier, Southeast Fork

On May 17 at 9 p.m., one member of a three-person climbing team fell into a crevasse on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, at around 8,400 feet, below the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter. The team was on skis and unroped at the time of the f...

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| Published 2022 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
MULTIPLE CLIMBING FALLS Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali, West Buttress Route

On June 11 at 9:45 p.m., NPS rangers received an SOS activation near 19,500 feet. It was reported that a 49-year-old male climber had fallen from the summit ridge and had sustained a head injury. The injured climber stated that he was unable to de...

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| Published 2022 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers