On Sunday, January 28, at noon, Ryan Cooper (21) fell about 30 feet while leading pitch one of the classic Repentance ice climb (3 pitches, WI5) at Cathedral Ledge. His fell was stopped by an ice screw and his belayer. Upon impact, his crampon snagged on the ice, which caused Ryan to suffer a serious lower leg injury. He was lowered to the ground by his partner and then was stabilized and evacuated by emergency responders to Memorial Hospital in North Conway. There, he had surgery for a broken leg.

ANALYSIS

Ice climbing poses the usual falling hazards one experiences in climbing rock. Add to this the higher risk of injury due to crampon points snagging on ice, rock, or clothing before the rope stops the fall. Repentance is a steep, narrow ice flow, often candled and aerated, and can be quite technical, depending on conditions. Ryan was fortunate to: avoid a ground fall; have enough remaining rope to allow lowering to the ground; have cell phone coverage; and be near emergency response. Ice climbing should be approached cautiously. Falls, especially while leading, are to be avoided. (Source: Lt. Bradley Morse, New Hampshire Fish and Game Department.)