In late October, Justin Willis and I headed into Glacier National Park to explore the area’s potential for fall alpine mixed climbing. During a warm and clear weather window, we made what we think is the second ascent and first "wintery" ascent of...
WE DEPARTED LEE'S FERRY on November 24, 2017, seven people in two boats. This would be my fifth trip down the Colorado River through Grand Canyon. It had been seven years since my last, and though I had rafted little in the meantime, my old friend...
JUST OFF the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway in northwest Wyoming is a section of the Clarks Fork Canyon of the Yellowstone River called the Box, which as far as I know was named by white-water boaters. In the Box is a 1,000’, south-facing granite wal...
Inspired by Florian Tolle’s report in AAJ 2008, Ruud Rotte, Danny Schoch, Menno Schokker, and I left the Netherlands on June 3 for the Dasbar Valley in far northwest Pakistan. We were possibly the first climbers to visit since Tolle’s French team ...
In July and early August, Dawid Sysak and I were in the Nalumasortoq-Ulamertorsuaq region, where we climbed a new route and made a first free ascent. After this, our last spell of good weather allowed us to make a free ascent of the area's classic...
Building on the successes of my earlier expeditions to the region (AAJs 2008, 2015, and 2016), Ingrid Baber (Germany), Sandy Gregson, Ron Kenyon, Simon Richardson, Mark Robson, and I (all U.K.) visited the Neild Bugt area from mid-April to mid-May...
Alik Berg and I left Calgary on June 30. On July 14, after many flights, jeep drives, and three days of trekking with porters, we arrived at our 4,500m base camp on the Yutmaru Glacier. As often happens on expeditions, neither the final team nor t...
In July and August, Lionel Daudet, Patrick Wagnon, and I (all French) visited the Mythics Cirque, about 350km north of Kulusuk. We sailed on Ada 2, a 15m yacht owned by Isabelle Autissier. Greenland has more than 3,000km of coastline on its easter...
Andrea Ghitti and I chose to visit East Greenland because we were looking for pure and exploratory mountaineering, a bit like climbers experienced in the Alps during the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition, a great Italian alpinist, Robert Peroni...
An Italian team that included Casimiro Ferrari reached Nevado Huantsán’s western summit from the south in 1972 (AAJ 1973). At 6,270m, this top is only about 125m lower than the main summit, but the gap proved too difficult to cross for the Italian...
The Cordillera de la Viuda is a subrange of the Cordillera Central (see Alpine Journal 2000 for more details about the area). With many 5,000m peaks and moderate climbing, it is an interesting place for exploration and climbing. The highest summit...
On June 26, from a high camp at 5,100m, my wife, Jeanne, and I climbed a possible new variation (grade AD+) to reach the previously climbed east ridge on Chaupi Orco (6,044m). Our route was necessitated by deep, fresh snow that forced us to find a...
On August 18, at around 4:15 p.m., rangers were notified that a climber had sustained traumatic injuries in an unroped fall while descending about 200 feet below the summit of the Grand. The climber, one of four brothers climbing together, had tum...
On July 8, we started hiking along Fryingpan Creek and made it to camp above Meany Crest, at around 7,500 feet, by midafternoon. The next day, we woke up at 1 a.m. and started our ascent of Little Tahoma (11,138 feet). We reached the summit around...
On June 2, Jason (45) and I (37) set out to climb the 11 pitches of Prime Rib of Goat (5.9). The sun was out, wind was mild, and we both felt confident in our ability. Starting the fourth pitch (the first 5.9 pitch), I was belaying while Jason led...
About 9:15 a.m. on May 29, Shelby Withington, 20, and three other climbers finished the seventh pitch on Sisyphus, a multi-pitch 5.11 sport route. The group decided to descend there rather than finish the easier last three pitches.In order to save...
A 19-year-old man glissaded into a hole in the snowfield below Aasgard Pass on June 4. This hole, which opens in the spring but is hidden from above, has been the scene of several glissading fatalities. Episode 25 of the Sharp End podcast features...
On July 30, my climbing partner, Stefan Goldberg (62) and I (67, both highly experienced mountaineers) began the Ptarmigan Traverse, climbing north to south. Our plan was to spend 12 days on the route, go as far as time permitted, and double back ...
A 37-year-old man died after falling several hundred feet and landing in a crevasse on the northeast side of Mt. Baker in the afternoon of August 19. The man’s partner also fell and was seriously injured; he was rescued by helicopter. The two wer...
On the morning of July 21, Susan Bennett, 61, and three partners set out to climb the Torment-Forbidden traverse. They completed the south ridge of Torment, and after a bivy on the ridge between Torment and Forbidden they got a late start the next...