Schweizerland, Sermiligaaq Fjord, Various Ascents

Greenland, East Greenland
Author: Brian Jackson. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

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Looking west from the mountain the 2019 team called Dromedary Peak. The conspicuous sharp summit on the ridge at the far side of the valley is Peak 1,569m. “Castle Peak,” climbed by the 2019 expedition, is the next main (pyramid-shaped) peak on the ridge running to the right. The 2019 base camp was at the bend in the river, where it turns to flow down to Sermiligaaq Fjord. Photo: Brian Jackson

In August, Dave Head, UIAGM guide John Lyall, and I traveled by boat from Kulusuk to a base camp at 66°5.6196’N, 36°35.3390’W, a little above the shore of Sermiligaaq Fjord, and between the termini of the Karale (Kaarale) Glacier and an unnamed glacier west of the Apuseeg (a.k.a. Knud Rasmussen) Glacier.

On the 21st we ascended a peak to the northwest of camp at 66°7.6814’N, 36°38.1715’W. We crossed a glacial river and then climbed the south face, with a finish up the west ridge, to reach the 1,550m summit, which we called Dromedary Peak. The next day we climbed a peak north of camp at 66°7.5872’N, 36°33.2738’W. Glacial moraine, a glacier, and snow slopes led to a notch in the south ridge, which we followed over subsidiary peaks (rappels needed) to the 1,421m top. We called this Castle Peak and found old rappel tat on one of the towers en route to the summit.

On the 26th we attempted to cross the unnamed glacier to the east but could not find a way, so we headed for a summit on the west side of this glacier. We climbed the south gully and arête to reach the 1,029m top at 66°7.7845’N, 36°30.1203’W, naming it Consolation Peak. We saw footprints at the base of this mountain but none higher up.

Finally, on the 28th, we climbed Crest Peak (1,322m, 66°9.8761’N, 36°33.0679’W). We approached as for Consolation Peak but then branched left into a side glacier that led northwest into a cul de sac of mountains. We continued to a col at the head of this basin, then climbed the east ridge of the peak, crossing several subsidiary tops (with rappels) before reaching the highest point.

– Brian Jackson, expeditionwise.com, U.K.

Editor’s note: There have been many mountaineering visits to the Karale Glacier area and Sermiligaaq Fjord, and it has not been possible to ascertain if these four peaks, or their respective routes of ascent, represent newly climbed ground. This team used the well-established local company Pirhuk for logistics, and this company services most expeditions in the area and appears to have a good grasp of what has and hasn't been climbed.



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