On April 25, Eitan Green and I flew into the Ruth Gorge with a good forecast and three weeks to get something done. Our first five days in the range were productive: We set up camp in the Root Canal, knocking off Shaken Not Stirred and Ham and Egg...
“I just simply say, ‘Don’t spend your time doing something that’s horribly dangerous, just to make a first ascent,’” Brad Washburn said late in life, on the occasion of his 67th trip to Alaska. “Enjoy making the second and third ascents of thrilli...
I flew into the central Alaska Range on April 23 to meet Dusty Eroh in the Ruth Gorge, where he was camped between Mt. Dickey and Mt. Bradley. The next three days consisted of condition-scouting trips to the base of a line we eventually climbed: N...
In May, Todd Tumolo and I completed a new route on Mt. Johnson (8,460’). We first saw the new line, the Fire Escape (4,000’, V 5.6 AI4 65°), while scouting conditions in the lower gorge.We began on May 6 at 5:30 a.m., climbing up a 70m smear of lo...
From April 20–21, Silas Rossi and I established a new climb on a ca 7,500’ satellite peak of Mt. Johnson (8,460’): Twisted Stair (2,300’, V WI6 R/X M6+).We flew into the Ruth Gorge on April 10 with the goal of climbing something and not sacrificin...
When Alex Bluemel and I (both Austrians) arrived in the Ruth Gorge on May 19 it was wintertime. However, things began to change immediately as an extraordinary weather window lasting more than a month established itself. The mountains started to s...
On May 31, Peter Haeussler and I, both from Anchorage, reached the summit of Broken Tooth (9,050’) via a major variation to the west ridge route (Bauman-Lewis, AAJ 1988). [Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and Jay Rowe first completed the lower part o...
After the first ascent of the east face of the Mooses Tooth in 1982, Jim Bridwell wrote of his return to base camp: “The cards were played and we had drawn aces. Finally I collapsed into prone paralysis. Just before unconsciousness, the memorable ...
Mark Allen and I had an excellent and fruitful expedition into the Central Alaska Range in May, making the probable second ascent of Mt. Laurens (10,042’) via a new route on its northeast buttress (4,650’, V AI4 M7 A1).Mt. Laurens is a prominent p...
In April, two Japanese climbers, Daizo Watanabe and Tani Takeshi, reported a possible new route on the south face of Mt. Frances, right above the Kahiltna base camp. Their route climbs one of several obvious, large gullies on the south aspect of t...
The eastern aspect of Pico Milluni (5,500m) features rather nice rock, and the following routes, all of which end on one of Milluni's summits, are likely new.In May my wife, Sal, and I climbed the main summit by the central, northeast-facing buttr...
Jared Vilhauer and I spent all day skiing up and down the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier and looking for an inspiring, safe line to give our all. Our original objective was sporting a new look—its summit snow slopes had cracked open to reveal a han...
During April 5-7, Jess Roskelley, Kris Szilas, and I established a new line on the east face of the Citadel (8,250’) above the Shadows Glacier. We encountered sparse protection, vertical rotten snow, quality ice, and mixed and aid climbing on poor...
In 2013 we held 31 events, ranging from climbing video nights and first-aid classes to full-on banquets. The commitment of numerous volunteers and local business partners made this record year possible. Last year the section responded to the rappe...
The section’s major climbing trip was held over Columbus Day weekend. With help from the Southern Appalachian and Mid Atlantic sections, we organized a joint meet at Seneca Rocks. Despite uncooperative weather, members ascended various Seneca clas...
The year 2013 will stand out for a memorable 34th Annual Black Tie Dinner. Fifty years earlier, Americans, for the first time, stood on top of Mt. Everest. Of all of the exploits of that historic expedition, none has stood the test of time like th...
Our section has had a great introduction since New York split into Upstate and Metro New York sections last year. Over the Columbus Day weekend, we hosted a very successful BBQ for 20-plus members and other climbers at the High Peaks Cyclery Guide...
In February our section helped International Mountain Equipment sponsor the 20th annual Mt. Washington Valley Ice Festival in North Conway, New Hampshire. It was an honor to be chosen as the beneficiary of the Friday-night festivities, and we were...
The Michigan Ice Fest continues to be the largest gathering of Midwest climbers and our section’s biggest event, with 434 participants descending upon Munising for the best ice conditions we have seen in decades. Climbers from 10 states and two co...
Two activities stood out last year in the extremely engaged section on Colorado’s Front Range. We formed a group called the Climbing Posse that met after work to climb. The dates were announced in our monthly e-mail, and each meeting was organized...