Silver Wall, South Summit; Zhioltaya Stena, East Face
Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin
In 2014 the Russian Championships were held in the Karavshin. Afterward several teams stayed on to complete more climbs. On August 11, Anastasia Ermishina and Alexander Zhigalov made the first ascent of the 3,850m south summit of Silver Wall via the east ridge. Silver Wall is situated 1.5 hours’ walk past Zhioltaya Stena (Yellow Wall). Just before 11 a.m. the pair reached the foot of the deep couloir between the main and south summits, where the 2011 Ternerev Route (5A) on the Silver Wall’s southeast face begins. A conspicuous buttress rises from this point directly to the south summit. There was a fair amount of vegetation, but the 600m route (25 pitches) was generally straightforward (grade 4A), with good belay ledges. They reached the top at 5:20 p.m. and were surprised to find the south top a completely independent summit. They descended the couloir (about 2B) and were back at camp by 9:30 p.m., having simul-climbed up and down the peak.
The next day, in 9.5 hours, the same pair climbed a new route on the far left side of the east face of Zhioltaya Stena. They had anticipated a line at around 5A, but strenuous aid climbing and other difficulties produced a 600m route of 5B. Old bolts were discovered at the top of pitches five and seven, but subsequent information suggests they were left during a rappel descent by a Krasnoyarsk team after completing a different line.
Lindsay Griffin, with information from Alexander Zhigaglov, Russia, translated by Ekaterina Vorotnikova