A Chinese party including Li Yuan and Zhang Xaiohui climbed the north-northeast face of Nyainbo Yuze (5,396m) in the summer of 2011. This was their second attempt, the previous in 2009. Approaching from the tourist center, via the Ximen lake and v...
The Mekong River, the 10th longest in the world, rises in the historically Tibetan province of Kham and flows ca 4,350km to the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. It's hard to believe that its source was not reached until 1994, but it lies hidden in a remot...
In June, Tadeo Shintani and I traveled to Zadoi with the aim of exploring unknown peaks and glaciers around the headwaters of the Mekong River. We were able to reach Hongse (4,700m, 33°24.887' N, 94°36.433' E) to the west of the mountains, but Jun...
For nine years I had toyed with the idea of climbing in Qinghai, which has many virgin summits. The relatively few peaks climbed to date have mostly been ascended by Chinese Army units. With only two weeks to spare, I focused on a small glaciated ...
Due to the terrorist attack in Pakistan, we had to change our summer expedition plans. After a couple of weeks’ research we decided on the Chinese side of the Western Kokshaal-too. We couldn't find much info, but the little we gained led us to bel...
In June we returned to Keketuohai, and as in 2012 were welcomed by the park authorities (AAJ 2013). Permission to climb was granted after fulfilling a number of basic requirements, which have been subject to change over the past few years. Lodging...
On October 11, Erik Harz, Felix Parham, and I reached the top of what we believe to be a previously unclimbed peak in the Changping Valley. Joey Shan, named for the incredible spirit of our friend Joey Hernandez, a Californian climber who passed a...
In October a team including Andrew Hedesh, Sylvain Millet, Claire Thomas, Thomas Vialletet, Zhuo Lei, and I visited the Jarjinjabo Massif, north of the Zhopu pastures. We climbed a number of new routes, including but not limited to, those describe...
From July 27 to August 25, Vincent van Beek, Vincent Perrin, Bas van der Ploeg, Bas and Saskia van der Smeede, and I visited the western sector of the Western Kokshaal-too. Following the usual approach through Kyrgyzstan, we reached the unnamed gl...
In June, Saro Costa, Luca Vallata, and I (all from Italy) explored the southern part of the Cordillera Huayhuash, where we attempted four peaks and succeeded on one climb (though we didn’t reach the summit). We set up base camp close to Sarapococh...
“Slip on Snow.” The phrase seems innocuous enough. It certainly doesn’t sound like something that might lead to an injury or a fatality. But the reality of those three words in Accidents is quite different. If a slip or fall on snow appears in the...
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is well guarded and until 2009 repelled climbers’ attempts at access. Nor have I found evidence of research parties accessing the glacier, despite active programs involving landings in Johns Hopkins Inlet.The glacier beco...
Miandi Peak, correction.In AAJ 2008 we published a report from Pat Deavoll on the presumed first ascent of Peak 6,465m, a mountain she climbed from the west and later named Miandi Peak, as it sits above Miandi (or Maiandi) Bamak (Glacier). Howe...
Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt.At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I traveled to Gangotri, hoping to climb the infamous and still virgin Shark’s Fin on Meru Central. This line has already repulsed m...
In November 2013, Christian Quezada, Ricardo Hernandez, Ulises Espinosa, and I (all members of the Grupo de Alta Montaña de los Perros Alpinos), traveled to the University and Cortaderal glaciers, which are located south of Santiago and comprise t...
Paul Gagner and I climbed a long, stepped ridge on the southeast aspect of Shoshoni Peak (12,967') on July 19. This ridge defines the left side of the big gash on Shoshoni’s south face. We climbed six pitches (5.9-), plus a long section of scrambl...
Grand Singatook, North Face. Otherwise known as “3870” to locals, this great hump rises out of Woolley Lagoon, receiving the brunt of Bering Sea weather. From the Teller Road one imagines that Singatook might have a worthy north face around the ba...
As a 16-year-old climber in 1978, with my long hair, swami belt, and patchy EBs, I stood on the damp little ledge at the base of Mazinaw Rock, Ontario, and looked up at the Joke, a beetling 100-meter wall decorated with a couple of bent and rusted...
Early June of 2013 was warm and beautiful in northern Norway. Before summer even began, I was lucky to complete my long-term project, a free ascent of Ikaros on the north face of Store Blamannen, our local big wall. I say lucky because the ascent ...
On June 19, Gregg Beisly, Robert Rauch, and I climbed what we believe to be a new route in the Zongo Pass area. Although I’m not sure the feature we climbed has a real name, we have started calling it Pico Triangular, due to its obvious shape as v...