I was attracted to Peak 5,086m, the Shark’s Fin, but only knew of He Chuan’s 2010 attempt. A lack of information brings uncertainty, more challenge, and extra fun. Above the Dagou Valley the Shark’s Fin presents two faces: The northwest face is a compact slab leading to crack systems; the southwest face is concave with a nearly vertical headwall, and is rich in crack systems.

Approaching the face is easy thanks to a yak trail. On September 19, Wu Donghua and I climbed two pitches and fixed 120m of rope. After a day of rain, we jumared to our high point and soon were simul-climbing steep terrain. By noon we were halfway up the route. The crack system above was filled with mud. Digging it out to place protection slowed us down, and we resorted to aid. At 6 p.m. we reached a good ledge 60m below the summit and bivouacked there. The final section, which we climbed in two pitches, was vertical and thin. Sometimes, pitons would only go in halfway. After a three-hour struggle we reached the top and found old rappel anchors. During the bivouac we had been able to see starlight through the night mist, so we named our route Night Fog, Star Sky (ca 650–700m, 5.11a A2). [Editor’s note: To about three-quarters height this route follows the line attempted in 2010 and 2011 by Gong Xiaorui, He Chuan, and Wu Peng, after which it moves left and climbs directly toward the summit. John Dickey, Dylan Johnson, and Chad Kellogg climbed the northwest ridge in 2010 but stopped below the 25m summit block due to steep, unprotectable granite.]

Gu Qizhi, China, translated by Xia Zhongming