During a trip to the Changping Valley with Fred Beckey and friends in October 2013, I met Jim Donini. While other Beckey expedition members established a new route on Joey Shan (5,178m, AAJ 2014), Jim and I reached a 5,182m unclimbed top just down the east ridge from Peak 5,235m. This peak lies north of the entrance to the Chiwen Valley, north of Pomiu (Celestial Peak), and on the west side of the Changping Valley before it makes the big bend to the west. Our route was south-facing and warm.

On October 8 we climbed from a high camp at 4,572m, crossing several spicy snow and rock fields, to a final four pitches of good rock that finished on top of a large monolith. The route was generally easy, 5.5 or so, but there is one mandatory move of 5.10 near the top. We had hoped to reach the main peak but were short on time. I called the route Legends due to the strange occurrence of being on a trip with legend Fred Beckey and winding up climbing an unclimbed, unnamed top with legend Jim Donini.

Cameron Kern, USA