We were attracted to the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Region by Tom Nakamura’s map depicting “Sichuan’s most outstanding unclimbed peaks.” One of these was Kawarani I (5,992m). From the road head near Garze town, to the northern side, we walked for two days through occasional deep snow to gain a camp below the north face. On February 20 we climbed the face, up and down in a single day, moving unroped on 45–50° snow the entire way.

Editor’s note: In 2005 British mountaineers attempted to gain access to the southern side of the Kawarani peaks, but after establishing an advanced camp at 4,800m, they were told to leave by a group of monks from the lower village. In 2007 a second British party failed to gain permission due to religious celebrations. In 2011 Japanese were granted a permit, but on arrival in China discovered this had been rescinded.

Marcos Costa and Bruce Normand, China