Aconcagua. On January 14, we were on top of Aconcagua. Our intention had been to do the Polish route, but a shortage of time, inflexibility of airline tickets and uncertainty of mules led us to do no more than the normal route. I was surprised to ...
Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge. After four weeks in the Yosemite, Helmut Neswadba and I felt we had sufficient preparation for our Alaskan climbing. We were flown to the Ruth Glacier on June 30. Taking advantage of good weather, we at...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 13 April Patrick Kearns (19) became separated from friends halfway up the Yosemite Falls Trail and continued on alone. He attempted to return by a short cut via a chimney between the Royal Arches and Washingt...
Ama Dablam Attempt. The following participated in our expedition: Ted Brittsan, Ben De Han, Carl Root, Barbara Rumer, Michael Trotter, Dorothy Landeen and I as leader. Following 12 days of acclimatization, which took us from Lukla to Kala Patar an...
Chacraraju Este, En el Alto, el Viento sera Nuestra Recompensa, to summit ridge. Aymeric Clouet and I took two days to reach a camp under the face between the moraine and the glacier. This year the right moraine from Laguna 69 was the only safe ac...
Dhaulagiri. We climbed Dhaulagiri by the normal northeast ridge. We got to Base Camp at 4650 meters on April 5. There were many crevasses in the glacier going to Camp I at 5700 meters, which we established on April 10. Camps II and III were set up...
Koh-e-Urgund-e-Payan. Six of our Sport Eiselin group climbed previously ascended Koh-e-Urgund-e-Payan (20,091 feet). We ascended the steep glacier left (east) of the Swiss spur. Base Camp was at 15,100 feet at the foot of the spur. We had two high...
Z3, Zanskar. On July 21, Z3 was climbed by the normal north-northwest face by Italians C. Ratti, R. Gemimiani, A. Marchetti, F. Raso, M. Cormani, B.W. Ceccarelli, R. Saisi, D. Carmicelli and R. Bernucci.Luciano Ghigo, Centro Italiano Studio Docume...
Gul Lasht Zom Ascent and Tirich Mir Attempt. An English expedition led by Jonathan Lee climbed Gul Lasht Zom (6611 meters, 21,690 feet) but failed on Tirich Mir. Details are not yet available.
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On August 8, Mr. Stephen Staff (18) fell while climbing Pinnacle Peak. Injury consisted of a laceration of right wrist, requiring eight stitches. Cause of accident unknown.
Mount Hunter, Moonflower Buttress. It was reported that in 1995, Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker spent 36 hours camp-to-camp on the Moonflower Buttress, reaching a point below the “Come Again” exit, which is approximately five pitches below the Stump-A...
The Polish Expedition to the Ranada Range on the Chilean- Argentine frontier, which has been in the field since the first of the year has succeeded in making a number of new ascents. On January 18th, 1934, S. Daszynski, A, Karpinski, W Ostrowski, ...
Everest Attempt. Our members were Shaun Norman, Chris Curry, Mark Whetu, Dick Price, Hugh Van Noorden, Steve Bruce, Anton Woperies, Mike Rheinberger and I as leader. We hoped to climb Everest’s north face with a start on the left side of the Great...
Sani Pakkush, 1991. Our expedition was composed of Arnfried Braun, Hans Jud, Daniel Ketterer, Leo Klimmer and me as leader. On July 13, 1991, we reached Bar at the end of the dirt road from Chalt in the Hunza Valley. We followed the East Kukuar Gl...
STRANDED, DIFFICULT TERRAIN, INSUFFICIENT RESEARCH Alberta, Clemenceau to Chaba River TrekAn experienced party of eleven climbers flew in to the Clemenceau Icefield in August, spent five days climbing and exploring, and then started hiking out nor...
Annapurna Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Eight South Koreans with nine Nepalese were led by Kim Teuk-Hee on the north face of Annapurna. Ice avalanches injured several members and Sherpas. At midday on December 2 during route preparation at 5800 mete...
WILLIAM SHAND, JR1918-1946Über alien GipfelnIst Ruh’,In allen WipfelnSpürest duKaum einen Hauch;Die Vögelein schweigen im Walde.Warte nur, baldeRuhest du auch.GoetheWilliam Shand, Jr., was born on 5 October 1918 in Lancaster, Pa. He attended the L...
The Naked Mountain. Reinhold Messner. (Tim Carruthers, translator.) Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2003. 315 pages. Hardcover. $22.95.The Naked Mountain is Reinhold Messner’s account of the 1970 expedition to climb Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, led...
Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains. Neville Shulman. Charles E. Tuttle Co., Boston, Rutland, Tokyo, 1992. 117 pages, black-and-white photographs, foreword by Chris Bonington. $12.95.Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains is the account of Neville ...
Maoist activity in the spring. Maoists continued to extort funds from climbers. They charged Norbert Joos’s Kangchenjunga six-member group 5,000Rs (roughly $70) per member. Another team, a Georgian and a Russian, on their way to Manaslu, were forc...