August found Oliver Deshler and I once again back in the Winds with dreams much bigger than our abilities. Hiking beneath lumpen packs, we came in from the north, forded the Green River twice, and then bashed our way through steep, trailless deadf...
Josh Wharton and I, along with photographer John Dickey, made a 10-day horse-packing trip to Mt. Hooker, starting from Big Sandy. We first attempted a new route on the east face of Hooker, a sub-wall on the left shoulder; however, we bailed at a s...
David Allfrey, Mason Earle and I went to Mt. Hooker from August 8–24. After hiking in from Dickenson Park, we began scoping the cliff and found what we believed was the most continuously blank and steep part of the wall. Over the next few days we ...
In August, Jared Spaulding and I put up a new route in the northern Wind River Range, near New Fork Park, on the 800-1,200’ China Wall. We started on good rock on the leftmost part of the main wall, which required several points of aid through a s...
In August, Eva Christ and Jake Tipton climbed a new route on the west aspect of Fremont Peak in Titcomb Basin, summiting a sub-spire they called the Marmot’s Tooth. The spire lies just left (north) of the West Face Spire. They called the 12-pitch ...
In AAJ 2014 we published a panorama looking from Syao Kang toward the Kangchenjunga massif, on which was marked the peak Nupchu (6,044m). While this correctly identifies the peak marked as "Nupchu" on the HMG-Finn map, it is not the peak climbed i...
Kenshi Imai, Kimihiro Miyagi, and Kenro Nakajima hoped to climb K6 West from the north (the same line climbed successfully by Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted at the end of July). Leaving base camp at 4,300m on July 4, the three Japanese made an ...
Uzun Brakk (formerly known as Conway’s Ogre) is a prominent mountain on the true left (north) bank of the Biafo Glacier. In 2009 we admired it from the foresummit of Lukpilla Brakk, but there was a lot of snow that year and we did not find the cou...
Paulo Roxo and I had not previously visited the Nangma Valley, and had no clear objective in mind. During research of this area we found neither information nor photos on the innermost parts of the valley, so our expectations were high.We made an ...
Prior to their ascent of Uli Biaho Tower (see report above), Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach made the first ascent of a smaller rock tower above the lower Trango Glacier, which they dubbed Submarine Peak.This tower forms the first point on the l...
One year after our first expedition to the beautiful Solu Glacier (see AAJ 2013), Gaby Lappe, Clemens Pischel, and I returned with a load of big-wall equipment to the village of Bisil and pastures of Pakora. Once more, it was not only a climbing t...
Our all-Pakistan expedition to the Fourth Koksil Glacier took place from August 17–28 and comprised Kamal Haider, Sa'ad Mohamed, Ahmed Mujtaba, Syed Jawad Tashfeen, and me from Islamabad, and Arif Baig and Mohammad Yahya from Shimshal. Koksil Sar ...
After withdrawing from the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat, following the terrorist attack, my next expedition was to the Ghidims Valley with Polish friend Anita Parys.After crossing Boesam Pass, Anita and I, along with locals Ilyas and Bulbul, reache...
In August-September 2012, Frank Gasser (Italy), Detlef Seelig (Germany), and Birgit Walk (Austria) visited the Ghidims Valley. The first people to reach the start of this valley, at a place called Mandi Kushlak, were Henry Montagnier and Captain C...
In June the international team of Olov Isaksson (Sweden), Anton Karnoup (Russia/U.S.), Jesse Mease (U.S.), and I (as leader) trekked to the Choktoi Glacier. Having been denied permission to enter the Chinese Karakoram, and denied official registra...
Ludvik Golob, Tomaz Goslar, Mojca Svajger, and I planned to acclimatize in the Aling Valley, then cross 5,620m Gondokhoro La and make an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I. We climbed in the Aling from July 17–31, then descended to Hushe, where w...
Malika Parbat (5,290m) is the highest peak in the Kaghan Valley, an area considered save for both local and foreign tourists. The highest (south) summit was probably first climbed by British Army officers Willoughby and Price in 1940 and again, vi...
In June, Kevin Volkening and I established a new route in the Sunlight Creek tributary to the Clarks Fork, a relatively remote climbing area just outside of Yellowstone in Wyoming. After months of Kevin telling me how awesome and full of potential...
There are many impressive walls in East Rosebud Canyon, but few are as proud and spectacular looking as the Doublets. The Upper Doublet is a monster at approximately 2,000’, perched high on the west side of the canyon; the Lower Doublet, at 1,500’...
In August, Patrick Kingsbury, Patrick Odenbeck, and I set off into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, returning to a wall I first saw in 2009. This remote wall is located above Lake Pisce, in a high cirque north of the Two Sisters and slightly det...