On September 28 a male climber named Roro fell while climbing Way of the Peaceful Warrior (5.10a). He fell off the bouldery first section of the route, and his first placement (a No. 8 nut) behind a thin flake pulled. This section of the route is very tricky to protect and run-out.

Analysis

Roro noted, “As I geared up for the climb, I was completely confident in my ability to add this route to my tick list. As I bouldered past the chossy initial section and placed my first piece in the crack, I wished for a rack with doubles since I saved a potential good first piece for later on the route. That was my mistake. I should have placed the most bomber piece as soon as I had the opportunity and not be concerned about what was higher on the route. However, having made quick work of a 10b a couple of days earlier, and this being a 10a, I believed that I would fare well on the route.

“I fell 25 feet and pulled the piece with me, and I suffered a compression fracture. I’m extremely lucky to be around and able to write this, all thanks to a helmet protecting my head.” (Source: Edited from a post on Rockmerica. wordpress.com.)