Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Helmet
Maine, Acadia National Park, The Precipice, Old Town
On April 28, Will Raymond (age 21) was leading Old Town, a popular 5.7 corner climb. Nearing the top of the first corner, which is typically climbed as a lieback, he slipped and fell. The camming unit that he had placed for protection failed, and he fell to the ground. He was not wearing a helmet and suffered head and spine injuries. He was evacuated to the local hospital by NPS rangers and Mount Desert Island SAR, and then taken by Lifeflight to a trauma center where he was treated and recovered very well.
Analysis
This climb, while protectable with a wide variety of gear, requires careful attention to the direction of placements, especially low on the climb where the pull of the rope could cause upward forces to occur. Using slings to minimize movement of gear placements and placing gear close together at the start of a pitch are almost always good ideas. (Source: Jon Tierney, IFMGA Mountain Guide.)