On July 15, two climbers were nearing the top of Mt. Temple’s north face via the Greenwood-Locke Route (20 pitches, 5.10+) on their second day of climbing. The route was in relatively dry summer condition, and the weather was clear and calm. At 4...
On March 22, a party of two was climbing Polar Circus (9 pitches, WI5), located above the Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies. At approximately 4 p.m., while descending snow slopes between ice pitches, the party was struck by a Size 2 avalan...
Person 1 (female belayer, 29) and Person 2 (male leader, 29) were climbing on Bedson Ridge near the northeast boundary of Jasper National Park. This area has multi-pitch climbs on highly compact limestone. The pair were friends and had been climbi...
On October 15, Nathan Roberts (35) died as a result of a fall while free soloing Mrs. Negative (5.12a) at Cheakamus Canyon, a sport crag north of Squamish. He was alone at the time and attempted the route while waiting to meet up with a climbing p...
On the morning of July 29, Matteo Agnoloni (30) and I, Ethan Berman (31), set off early from a bivy high on the ridgeline connecting Serra 3 and 4 in the Waddington Range. We were attempting a full traverse of the range and were in the midst of a ...
"Look, Jérôme," Mathieu Maynadier said, pointing at a map as he and Jérôme Sullivan drank coffee at Mathieu’s home back in 2021. “Pumari Chhish East is like Latok, but without any previous ascents.” At the time, Mathieu and Tom Livingstone had a...
I became interested in the north face of Mt. Breitenbach (12,140’) in the early 2000s as an alpine climbing objective. There had been several attempts over the years, but only one route, the Grand Chockstone Couloir (III 5.8 A2, Boyles-Olson-Weber...
July 6 was the second day of climbing in the Cirque of the Towers for Alex Satonik (35) and Peter Haley (29). After climbing Pingora the previous day, they decided to try the equally classic East Ridge of Wolfs Head (10 pitches, 5.6). Satonik wrot...
On June 30 at approximately 2:25 p.m., while on patrol, a National Park Service (NPS) climbing ranger encountered two climbers yelling for help near the top of Spalding Falls. The climbing ranger reported that a 62-year-old male had lost control w...
On September 21 at 8:30 p.m., climbing rangers received a call from a climber reporting that his party of three were soaking wet and stuck on the south face of Teewinot (12,325’). The reporting party relayed that they had a single headlamp and no ...
On August 16 at 10:52 a.m., National Park Service (NPS) climbing rangers received a call from a climber on the Cathedral Traverse, between Teewinot and Mt. Owen. His climbing partner had fallen from the col atop the Koven Couloir. The reporting pa...
At 4 p.m. on July 23, NPS climbing rangers received a call from a climber near the summit of Symmetry Spire. She reported that her climbing partner had taken an estimated 60-foot tumbling leader fall and that he had briefly lost consciousness and ...
On August 16 at 12:36 p.m., rangers received a cell phone call from a climber who reported that his two partners needed assistance at 9,600 feet on Mt. Moran (12,610’). The reporting party (RP) was descending the CMC Route and was in communication...
On August 22, a Canadian climber named Chun Hui Zhang (52) died after falling while descending the Disappointment Cleaver route on Mt. Rainier. He was climbing the mountain with several friends. His body was recovered the day after the accident wa...
On May 11, two climbers, who were not identified, made a 911 call saying that deteriorating weather conditions had forced them to halt their ascent of the Kautz Glacier route (WI2/3) on Mt. Rainier (14,410’). The Kautz route is the third most popu...
On June 11, I (male, 28) was leading the first pitch of Hello Kitty (3 pitches, 5.10b) at Middle Eight Mile Buttress, outside of Leavenworth, at about 4 p.m. on a sunny day. The pitch is mostly bolted with a couple of options for gear placements, ...
On July 4, Bryan Caldwell (44) and a partner were climbing R&D (4 pitches, 5.6) on the Icicle Buttress. Around 1:15 p.m., bad weather moved in and the team decided to retreat via rappel. After Caldwell’s partner reached the base, she heard Cal...
On July 29, my partner (male, 33) and I (male, 33) set out around 2 a.m. for an attempt at Mt. Stuart’s Direct North Ridge (IV 5.9). The route was well within our technical expertise and similar to other alpine objectives we had completed in the p...
Around 11 a.m. on November 7, a female climber (38) started up the first pitch of The Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.4) on Looking Glass Rock. She was belayed from above by her husband, Climber 2 (37), who had led the pitch. On the second move off th...
On April 12, Dalton Snow (29) was leading an unnamed single-pitch route (5.11) in order to rig a highline when he dislodged a loose rock and fell 40 or 50 feet onto a low-angle slab near the base of the route. The first half of the route had poor...