Also known as Pangri Goldumba, Goldum (6,632m, 28°19’44.10”N, 85°43’25.08”E) is situated toward the head of the Langtang Glacier, on the border with Tibet, directly opposite Xixabangma. The only known prior attempt took place in 1962, when Lord Patrick Glentworth (a founding member of the British-Nepal Society), his wife, Silvia Lush, Simon Bowes-Lyon, Jane Knudtzon, and Adam Stainton, accompanied for part of the time by Alf Gregory and Charles Wylie, explored the Langtang, and four of the team tried to climb Goldum. The quartet reached around 6,100m on the north-northeast ridge before retreating in appalling snow conditions. The mountain was not brought onto the permitted list until 2014. [See "Historical Climbs at the Head of the Langtang Valley" in AAJ 2024 for more about early exploration of this area.]

In the spring of 2023, an expedition led by Bok Jin-young reached the Langtang Valley with the aim of climbing Goldum. The team included Jeong Ji-hoon, Kim Dae-il, Park Joung-yong, Park So-jeong, and Son Ho-seong. Park Joung-yong had received information on this peak from the late Kim Chang-ho, with whom he had been on several expeditions to the Himalya.

On March 14, two days above Kyanjin Gompa (3,870m), the team established base camp on the Langtang Glacier at 4,750m. Beyond this, technical skills are needed to advance.

Due to the lengthy distance (ca 20km) between base camp and the peak, two advanced camps were established, at 4,815m and 5,050m. Jeong, Kim, and Park Joung-yong reached the upper camp on the 18th and explored possible routes on the north side of Goldum. After some time at base camp, on the 27th, Jeong, Kim, Park, and Son established Camp 1 at 5,648m, and on the 28th Camp 2 at 5,898m. On the 29th, all four climbed toward the north-northeast ridge (the same ridge attempted in 1962). At one point Kim fell 30m on a steep snow slope before being arrested, and he returned to camp. The other three reached the ridge, where their progress was stopped by a large crevasse at 6,100m. They descended and continued down the valley, and the expedition spent five days resting in Kyanjin Gompa.

Base camp was regained on April 5, and Jeong, Kim, Park Joung-yong, and Son headed up again, arriving at Camp 2 on the 9th. Next day, taking a different line from their previous foray, they climbed seven long snow and ice pitches to 6,350m on the north-northeast ridge, where they made Camp 3. (The first of these, comprised of hard ice, was nearly vertical.) On summit day, the 11th, Kim felt exhausted and elected to stay in camp while the other three climbed to the top, which they reached at 12:30 p.m. All four descended to Camp 2 that same day. 

— Oh Young-hoon, Korea